A technical raincoat is a must for all climbers, especially those who spend a lot of time in the mountains, do multipitch climbs or even people who just hang out all day out of doors. Since they will (hopefully) usually be stashed away in your pack, compactable jackets--many have stuff sacks--are the norm.
Most companies take into consideration the following things when designing technical jackets for climbers: breathability which includes the type of materials used and also whether or not the jacket has ventilation such as pit zips; functionality with other layers so that it should fit comfortably over numerous layers; sleeve construction that allows unrestricted range of motion; chin guards to help wick away moisture; storm flaps over zippers and elastic drawcords on both the waste and the hood that allow you to cinch down the jacket against wind and rain.
What to Look for
Peruse the Internet and outdoor retailer catalogs when shopping around for a jacket. It's important that you consider what type of environment you are going to be in and to research jackets that are made specifically for that environment. Then visit your local outdoor store and try on a bunch of jackets. While you're trying jackets on, make sure to wear them as you do the following things: climb on whatever you can find--some stores have mini rock walls; wear a full pack; try on your harness and do jumping jacks. Basically, do whatever it takes to really feel how your jacket moves on your body. Do your research because if your technical raincoat doesn't fit well, it's not going to keep you dry.
Gortex is the top-performing material used in most rainwear. Craggers don't need the extra burly, triple-layer Gortex that mountaineers and alpinists need for multiple days in bad weather. Either the single- or double-layer Gortex will suffice. Other jackets have a laminate or coating that also performs well.
Common Pitfalls
Gortex is expensive, and though the manufacturers may say otherwise, it does become less effective over time. Laminate and coatings definitely wear off eventually, but they are still an excellent alternative for people with lower budgets.
Stay away from rubber. It doesn't breath, which is an important because while climbing and hiking to the crags you will work up a sweat. If the jacket has no ventilation and material that doesn't breathe, you're going to be soaking wet even if it is waterproof rubber. Also, avoid ponchos. They are too bulky and totally ineffective if you are actually on the rock.
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