Smart Shopping for Climbing Portaledges

Also called a "ledge," a portaledge is a temporary shelter and bed for climbers who spend multiple days on the sheer faces of rock walls. Typically portaledges are made of a series of connected aluminum poles that, when assembled correctly, fit together to form a flat platform. Nylon or polyester, weatherproof fabric is stretched across the poles like a cot. The whole system hangs from a single point and has adjustable suspension straps. Most portaledges also have a "fly" (also, "stormfly") that covers the entire contraption like a tent. It is typically water proof and abrasion-resistant. Some stormflies are made for harsher conditions and strap down in more places than simpler flies.

There are single and double portaledges, single being for one person and doubles being for two. Double ledges typically have a divider or a "spreader bar" that helps keep the frame rigid and the bed tight and flat so that the two climbers don't roll into each other all night.

What to Look for

Will you be rope soloing a wall or climbing with a partner? People who like to go at it alone should go for the single portaledge because it is lighter and thus easier to haul up a wall. However, climbers looking for comfort and who aren't worried about the extra pounds, might like the roomy double portaledge better. Parties of two should definitely go for the double portaledge because singles are just large enough for one wide-shouldered climber. As far as different brands go, most of the ledges are comparable in price (very expensive) and also in quality. Check out online reviews, talk with the experts at your local climbing shop--make sure to talk with someone who has used a portaledge--and read what each company has to say about its ledge.

Common Pitfalls

Double portaledges without spreaders can be very uncomfortable because they sag so much in the middle. Also, sometimes the fittings on the ends of the poles stick and/or are very difficult to put together. In this case, it is helpful to file down the ends of the poles before use. Or look for brands that have anodized poles and corner fittings. This will facilitate easier and quicker set up and will help keep the poles from corroding.

A climber should practice setting up his ledge a few times before doing so on the wall. Often it's much more difficult to set up a portaledge while hanging off of an anchor. Luckily, everything is completely connected and so even if a climber is setting up his ledge for the first time while 1,000 feet off the ground, at least he won't lose any of the pieces.

Last updated on: Nov 18, 2009

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