Maintaining hair length is an arduous and frustrating task for many women of color who have highly textured hair. Although hair grows at an average of six inches per year, black or highly textured hair tends to grow slower. A 2010 article published in "Society Hill Dermatology" examined the differences between black highly textured and Caucasian hair types. Dr. Susan Taylor, physician and dermatology expert, highlighted the fragile composition of black hair, which she described as more susceptible to breakage by way of microscopic knots contained in the individual strands. The diverse texture of black hair varying from coiled, curly and wavy illustrates another characteristic, as well as its tendency for dryness. Chemical treatments, improper styling practices and heat can all contribute to damage, further jeopardizing hair growth.
Growth Stages
Hormones, heredity and nutrition all affect hair growth, of which there are three stages: catagen or transitional phase, telogen or resting phase, and anagen or active phase. During the categen phase, growth stops and the outer layer of the root shrivels, wrapping around the root to form a bulb. In the telogen phase, the bulb forms completely and some shedding might occur. Hair growth takes place during the anagen phase, and cells in the root divide to form new hairs, pushing the bulbs of the old ones out of the scalp. This cycle can last from two to six years.
Causes for Breakage
A 2005 article published in the "International Journal of Dermatology" researching hair loss in Nigerian women linked a range of alopecia cases to extended use of chemical relaxers. During this process, protein bonds of the cortex, in the hair shaft, break down, leaving the already delicate hair more fragile and susceptible to breakage. A single strand of highly textured hair will alternate in diameter from thick to thin, weakened in the curved sections. This structure will break easily if not styled with care. Use a wide-tooth comb to untangle knots, starting from the ends to the roots. Excessive use of heated styling tools damage the hair, and tight braids can lead to uneven edges, traction alopecia and breakage around the hairline.
Protective Styles
Give your hair a chance to recover with protective styles. Braids and twists look attractive and need little attention once completed, allowing hair to grow undisturbed. Don't braid the hair tightly or keep the style for longer than two to six weeks at a time. Use a dry shampoo, and massage the scalp daily with a light oil to stimulate circulation. Set your hair on small rods to cut down on daily styling. Finger comb hair and use slides and combs to accessorize.
Maintenance
Condition your hair regularly with hot oil and deep conditioning treatments to maintain the moisture balance. Wash with conditioner as an alternative to harsh and drying shampoos to keep hair clean, softer and more manageable. Use a leave-in conditioner, and spritz your hair with oil and water to prevent braided and twisted styles from drying out. Trim your ends every six to 12 weeks to combat split ends, and cover with a satin headscarf or sleep with satin pillowcases for extra protection. Clarify your hair once a month to remove product build-up. You can use a commercial product or make an apple cider vinegar rinse. Conditioning treatments work better in thoroughly cleansed hair.
Lifestyle
Make sure you eat a balanced, nutritious diet consisting of leafy green vegetables, fruits, nuts, pulses (beans, peas and lentils) and proteins. Vitamin B complex supplements and fish oil help improve the condition of hair, and MSM supplements can extend the anagen phase. Exercise on a regular basis, and drink plenty of water to help flush out toxins and keep your body hydrated.
Member Comments