What Causes Hair Breakage In African Americans?

According to the December 2007 issue of "Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings," the hair of African Americans does not differ significantly, chemically or structurally, from Caucasians or Asians. Rather, as the website Treasured Locks explains, African American hair may simply have more cuticle, or outer layer, and its kinkiness may prevent skin oils from reaching hair tips. Consequently, when African Americans modify their hair structure using chemicals, hair brushing or braiding, it can result in structural breakage and damage.

Genetic Fragility

In the "Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings," dermatologist Amy McMichael, M.D., covers the topic of hair breakage specifically for black patients. She explains that certain innate factors may increase the fragility of African American hair. For example, the African American hair follicle has a more elliptical shape than that of other races, which causes hair to appear curlier in nature. According to McMichael, the level of moisture in African American hair in combination with its curly nature may genetically predisposition African American hair to a higher risk of breakage.

Heat Damage

African American women sometimes choose to thermally straighten their hair using temperatures of 150 to 500°F, according to the "Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings." These hot temperatures can rearrange hydrogen and disulfide bonds in hair, changing it from curly to straight. However, the hair often returns to its original condition once it becomes wet, and the process must be repeated. Over time, this process can damage the hair structure, resulting in breakage.

Chemical Straightening Agents

Since the early 1960s, African Americans have straightened their hair using chemical relaxers that modify hair bonds. Unfortunately, as the hydrogen and disulfide bonds rearrange, they weaken the hair shaft causing an increase in hair breakage. In fact, a September 2000 study published in the "Archives of Dermatology" reported that improperly formulated relaxers resulted in breakage and hair loss in over 95 percent of users.
An October 8, 2009, article in "Medill Reports," Northwestern University's graduate journal, said that while chemicals can provide more relaxed, straighter hair to African American women, they can also be painful to the scalp and potentially cause scarring if left in beyond the recommended time frame. In fact, Dr. Jonith Breadon of the University of Chicago's Aesthetic Dermatology and Laser Surgery pointed out that the reapplication of chemical product to already treated hair can further exacerbate the issue of breakage.

Hair Styling

Harsh brushing and combing can weaken hair at the roots, causing it to fall out or break more easily. The Mayo Clinic says traction alopecia--hair loss due to excessive hair styling--results as hair is continually pulled into place, causing undue stress and potentially permanent damage to the hair roots. If hair is allowed to fall naturally, however, it will return to normal growth with time (assuming there is no scarring).