Whether your rappelling off a high desert tower, an icy mountain peak or just off the local crags, good technique will make your rappelling safe, fast and easy every time. According to Climbinglife.com, all climbers should have a few techniques down, depending on available equipment and existing conditions.
Back it Up
The Prussik is the most common way to back up a rappel. By wrapping a cord or pre-sewn runner around the rope and clipping it to the harness, it can catch and retain the rope in the event of injury that may cause the rappelling party to drop the brake hand. A Prussik is good practice in remote settings or alpine environments where rock fall is possible from above.
Less is More
Look for basic plate style belay devices for rappelling. Some plates have independent slots for individual lines of rope. These help keep the rope untangled, while other styles, like a figure-8, actually twist the rope up and can cause snagging and drag, leading to dangerous circumstances in climbing environments. Also, avoid mechanical rappel devices that can get jammed with debris or can freeze.
Tie Up Those Loose Ends
One simple and very effective measure to avoid rappelling off the rope is to simply tie knots in the rope ends. On multiple rappels, this is common practice, however, it is important to remember to clean the knots before pulling one end of the rope or else the knot will likely get stuck in the anchor.
Proper Harness Use
Modern climbing harnesses come with belay loops, a large pre-sewn loop that connects the waist belt to the leg loops, creating a focal point of strength. Some climbers rely on the traditional method of threading carabiners through the waist belt when rappelling or belaying. This is outdated and actually puts force on the harness, while the belay loop reduces it, according to Climbinglife.com. Always use the belay loop for rappelling and belays.
Slow it Down
Rappelling often comes after long days of climbing, with tired hands and fatigued minds. It is also when the most accidents happen, according to Rockclimbing.com. It can be wise to add friction to the system that the rope feeds through. This is easily done by adding a few carabiners to the mix, above and underneath the belay device, creating more kinks for the rope to feed through, and slowing down the action of the system.
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