Rappelling, known as abseiling in Europe, is a climbing technique using an anchored rope, a harness and a special device, called a descender, to lower a climber down a cliff face or other structure. Once connected to the rope, the climber will back off the cliff face until the rope is bearing full weight. The climber can then control the rate of descent.
History
The technique of rappelling was developed by the Chamonix guide Jean Estéril Charlet. In 1876, while attempting to climb a mountain in the Mont Blanc range known as the Petit Dru, Charlet used rappelling for the first time. During subsequent attempts to conquer this mountain, Charlet perfected the technique, which is now used by climbers throughout the world.
Equipment
Protective gear including a helmet, gloves, sturdy boots or other footwear and knee and elbow pads make the descent safer. A harness that fits around the waist and legs is also worn. The rope used for rappelling should have a multistrand core protected by a woven covering that resists abrasion. To help avoid bouncing, the rope should not stretch much. Anchoring equipment is used to secure the rope to the structure. Finally, a device known as a descender will control how the rope pays out while descending. The descender acts as a brake, slowing or even stopping the climber when tension is to the rope with the brake hand.
Method
Once the harness and safety equipment are put on, the rope is securely anchored and thrown out to the bottom of the structure. The climber then attaches the descender, first to the rope, then to the harness. At this point, a full inspection of the gear assembly is essential. The climber then grasps the main rope below the descender with their favored hand. This acts as the brake hand, pulling the rope to control the descent. Once everything is in place and inspected, the climber then puts weight on the rope to test the equipment. Finally, the climber will work backward off the edge of the structure, allowing the rope to bear full weight. The break hand controls the speed at which the climber descends.
Risks
While rappelling may look like a simple procedure, it is actually one of the most dangerous techniques used in climbing. Anchor failure, falling rocks, equipment failure or loss of control by the climber can result in serious injury or even death. Unexpected occurrences, such as long hair or loose clothing becoming tangled in the descender or a twisted and jammed rope can also occur.
Safety
The equipment should be in good repair at all times. Rappelling equipment should be thoroughly and frequently inspected. It is also critical that the anchor is secure. When selecting a location for rappelling, avoid areas with loose rocks. Ensure that a Prussik knot or other backup device is added to the end of the line to avoid rappelling off the line. A secondary safety line, known as a belay line, can also be used to protect the climber. Above all, proper training, experience, and familiarity with the equipment and techniques used in rappelling will help to ensure a safe descent.
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