Rappelling is a rope technique that allows you to descend steep terrain by using a friction device to control your speed. When mastered, rappelling provides a valuable tool to safely descend many obstacles in the backcountry that would otherwise be an impassable barrier. This is an essential skill to learn if you are interested in canyoneering, mountaineering or rock climbing. According to Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills, a rappel system has four basic elements: an anchor, a rope, a rappel method for applying friction to the rope, and the person rappelling.
Anchor
An anchor secures the rappel rope to the rock. The anchor needs to be strong enough to support the full weight of each climber. Avoid anchor placements that have the rope running over sharp edges or through loose rocks. Nylon webbing with aluminum rappel rings attached to large trees, secure boulders and expansion bolts are the three most common rappel anchors. In some circumstances, a costly rappel anchor must be constructed from your climbing gear and left in place.
Rope
Attaching the rope to the anchor is the next key checkpoint. Thread ropes through aluminum rappel rings or a carabiner to eliminate the risk of the rope burning through the webbing. As the rope is threaded through the rings, closely inspect for any damage that may have occurred. When tying two ropes together for a longer rappel, check the knot is secure and has tails of at least 12 inches. The rope should run freely through with no tangles.
Rappel Device
Check that the harness is secured and the rope properly threaded through the rappel device. Lock the carbiner so that the rope stays in place. Rappelling often takes place at the end of a long day of exertion and the majority of accidents occur on descent. Get in the habit of checking each others rappel set up before committing to the descent. This 10 second safety check has saved countless lives.
On Rappel
If you are new to rappelling, it is a good idea to wear gloves. The friction generated by the rope passing through the brake hand can burn flesh! Face the anchor with a firm grip on the rope with the brake hand. Spread feet shoulder width apart, bend knees slightly and keep legs perpendicular to rock face and lean back. Shout "On Rappel." Feed the rope slowly through the rappel device with the brake hand, keeping the free hand loosely holding the rope above for balance. At the end of the rappel, securely clip in to the next anchor or find a stable stance if on the ground. Remove the rope from your device and shout "Off Rappel."
Safety
Rappelling requires that you commit your weight and life to your equipment and anchor. Any error can prove to be fatal. Always double check harness buckle, belay device, carabiner, anchor and rope before each rappel. Anyone new to the sport should seek professional instruction on the basics of climbing. Certified climbing instructors are available at many local climbing gyms and will be able to insure you have mastered the skill in a controlled setting.
References
- "Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills"; Steven M. Cox and Craig Fullsaas; 2003
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