Most soap contains synthetic ingredients such as fragrances, colors and stabilizers. With the exception of lye, organic soap contains no synthetic ingredients. It is available in a wide variety of scents and colors, and there is a great deal of variation in the base oils that are used. Some organic soaps may contain vegetable oils such as olive or coconut oil, while others contain animal fat such as lard.
Lye
Lye, also called sodium hydroxide, is produced by running an electrical current through salt water, which produces a white, crystalline material. Lye is extremely caustic and can cause severe burns. When lye is mixed with oil and water, it goes through a chemical process called saponification, a chemical reaction that creates soap and glycerin.
You can make a simple lye at home by filtering water slowly through wood ash, which produces a viscous, brown liquid. Before electricity, a soft soap could be made with this type of homemade lye.
Water
Water is an essential ingredient in soap. In general, plain water is used. In organic soaps that contain goat's milk or another creamy liquid, the milk is substituted for water.
Oil
Soap can be made with either vegetable oil or rendered animal fat. Canola, sesame, olive and palm oil are commonly used in organic soaps. Sometimes more exotic oils such as shea butter or jojoba oil can be added. The more oil the soap contains, the softer the bar is. If there is too little oil, the soap is too hard and breaks easily.
The ratio of oil, water and lye must be carefully adjusted to ensure that all of the oil and lye react completely. Some soap-makers add a little extra oil than is necessary, which makes the bar softer but more moisturizing and ensures that no unreacted lye is left over.
Glycerin
Glycerin is a thick, sweet liquid that is produced during saponification. When lye, water and oil are mixed, the resulting solution is 25% glycerin and 75% soap. Glycerin itself is more valuable than soap because it acts as an emollient and humectant, which means it moisturizes skin and draws moisture to the skin's surface.
Organic soap makers usually leave the glycerin in the soap, which makes it considerably less drying than non-organic soap. Companies that mass produce soap generally remove the glycerin to use it in more profitable cosmetic products such as face creams and body lotions. Glycerin can also be sold to make nitroglycerin. It is extracted from soap by adding salt after saponification is complete, but before the soap begins to cure. The salt causes the soap to curdle into small chunks. The chunks are removed and glycerin is left behind.
Other Ingredients
Organic soap may be unscented or undyed, but many have fragrances and colors. Plant essential oils can be used to scent soaps and colors from plant or mineral sources may be used. When the water, lye and oil are combined, it takes 15 minutes to 1 hour for the mixture to thicken. When the mixture is thick and creamy, it is ready to go into the mold. Scents and colors are added right before molding. Other ingredients such as oatmeal, exfoliants or decorations may also be added at this stage.
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