Dermatologists have been using alpha hydroxy acids for the past 30 years as an effective therapy for skin problems. Their most popular use is for easing the ravages to the skin associated with aging and sun exposure. Repeated application of alpha hydroxy products can actually regenerate and thicken the connective tissue deep within the skin, according to a review article in Clinics in Dermatology. The result is fewer fine lines and wrinkles and a younger looking face.
Function
Alpha hydroxy therapy has two functions. It helps dead skin cells to slough off, allowing for regrowth of new skin. It also strengthens skin thickness and firmness by stimulating production of collagen and elastin.
Uses
The acid content in over-the counter alpha hydroxy products ranges from 2 to 10 percent. Cosmetologists offer alpha hydroxy therapy with concentrations of 20 to 30 percent, while physicians offer alpha hydroxy chemical peels with concentrations up to 70 percent. In addition to using them for wrinkles, physicians may suggest alpha hydroxy peels for skin conditions that include acne, age spots and rosacea, a skin condition that causes inflammation and redness. Physicians sometimes use alpha hydroxy therapy in combination with other treatments like microdermabrasion and Botox.
Types
There are several types of alpha hydroxy acids used in skin care. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and is the most common variety used in cosmetics and skin treatments. Lactic acid is a popular ingredient used for its exfoliating and antiaging effects. Malic acid, found in pears and apples, and citric acid, derived from citrus fruits, are also types of alpha hydroxy acids that are sometimes combined with other alpha hydroxy acids in skin preparations.
Considerations
Alpha hydroxy therapy is not necessarily better at higher concentrations. A clinical study by Stiller and colleagues showed that skin treated with alpha hydroxy therapy at a concentration of 8 percent showed definite, steady improvement. Lower concentrations are less likely to cause side effects and are the best bets for home use. Although it is possible to buy alpha hydroxy products with concentrations of 50 percent or more on the Internet, their use carries higher risks of burning, irritation and even scarring. Even low concentrations of alpha hydroxy cause more sensitivity to the sun, so use a sunscreen if you use alpha hydroxy products. See a professional if you would like to pursue aggressive therapy with alpha hydroxy.
Time Frame
Alpha hydroxy acid peels of 30 to 70 percent concentration can be administered in a doctor's or cosmetologist's office weekly or monthly. Benefits can be almost immediate, but treatment must continue regularly for the benefits to last. When using lower-potency alpha hydroxy preparations at home, consult the package directions. Many products suggest starting with use a few times a week, building to daily use if no significant irritation results. Like with professional preparations, the benefits depend on continued use. Otherwise, aging skin will begin to build up again.
References
- "Arch Dermatol"; Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin; M.J. Stiller et al; 1996
- University of Maryland Medical Center: Skin Wrinkles and Blemishes: Treatment
- "Clinics in Dermatology"; Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids; B. Green et al; 2009
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