Smart Shopping for Climbing Pulleys

Pulleys offer aid climbers or climbers practicing (or implementing) rescue techniques a mechanical advantage when they are hauling loads up a wall. A pulley consists of a stainless steel wheel/axle with a grooved rim for the rope that turns in an aluminum frame (side plates, sheave and bearing). It helps transmit the force of lifting a weight at the end of the rope.
Some pulleys have automatic locking mechanisms so that when a person hauls on something, it will automatically lock into place. Climbing pulleys are designed to be especially light and completely nonabrasive on a climbing rope. Thus the metal is often anodized.

What to Look for

Will you be using pulleys primarily for rescue training or aid climbing, or do you just want to have them as backup in case of an emergency situation? If you will be using pulleys often, select the slightly heavier and beefier versions because they last longer. If you will use one only sporadically, choose the lightest ones on the market.
Aid climbers should get the auto-locking pulleys because they make hauling much more efficient.

Common Pitfalls

Be wary when using pulleys as the main part of your rescue or hauling system. Climbing pulleys are strong, but they are not foolproof. Sometimes the auto-locking or the other lock-off mechanism you come up with fails, and if the pulley is subject to too much force, it can also fail. If this happens, your haul bag or whatever else is on the other end of your line will go crashing down. This will also cause quite a bit of force on the anchor, which can endanger the entire system. Always back up the rope as you pull it through the pulley, and always back up your entire system to ensure safety if the pulley fails.
Don't purchase or use a pulley unless you are familiar with aid climbing or rescue techniques.

Last updated on: Jul 16, 2009

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