Also called a "sit harness," harnesses have two key components that ensure a climber's safety and comfort--a waist belt (aka Swami belt) and leg loops. The waist belt, which should be buckled snuggly above the hipbones, keeps the climber secured to the rope, while the leg loops increase comfort (and prevent gut wrenching) for those times when a climbers falls or hangs on the rope. Most of today's harnesses feature a belay loop that connects the leg loops and waist belt. Climbers use this loop for belaying and clipping into anchors.
Other typical components include gear loops, rear haul loops and fleece or foam padding. Plus, leg loops often feature buckles and/or elastic bands that allow climbers to adjust the size of the loops and/or to keep them snug on a climber's leg without restricting movement or blood flow. Some of the newest harnesses feature speed-buckle systems that don't require threading and un-threading, but most have a standard double-back buckle system.
What to Look for
Do some research online and by visiting your local climbing shop and asking the staff to show you harnesses that are specifically made for ice climbing. Ice-specific harnesses should have extra loops to accommodate your ice tools, and they should be easy to manipulate with gloved hands.
Find a harness that has a snug fit and is comfortable, especially over multiple layers of clothing. There should be 2 to 3 inches of belt remaining after you buckle in; there shouldn't be hard edges (either the metal buckle or the stiff nylon belt) digging into your sides; and the leg loops shouldn't put undue pressure on your genitals, or be too loose or too tight around your upper thighs. Ice climbers should choose a harness with adjustable leg loops that can easily be resized depending on how many layers are worn.
Common Pitfalls
The $50 to $100 price range of harnesses may have shoppers looking for less expensive models. However, be aware that if you choose a harness with fixed leg loops or that doesn't adjust according to the amount of clothing you are wearing, you will be incredibly uncomfortable while ice climbing and potentially unsafe. Also, remember that if you are wearing numerous layers, you should cinch the harness down tightly, because as the layers pull out of your harness (which inevitably happens when you're raising your arms above your head all day), you don't want to end up with a loose harness that you could potentially fall out of.
Women should definitely stick with the women's models of harnesses, because the waists are smaller, and the leg loops and the distance between the leg loops and tie-in--the rise--is longer. Heavier climbers should consider a harness with a thick padded waist that will offer more support for the lower back. Watch out for the width of the straps, however. Wider straps can sometimes dig into your flesh. Narrower straps offer more ease of movement.
Member Comments