A technical raincoat is a must for all climbers, especially those who spend a lot of time in the mountains, do multi-pitch climbs, or even people who just spend all day outdoors. Since rainwear will usually be stashed away in your pack, compactible jackets that can be crammed into stuff sacks are the norm. Most companies take into consideration the following things when designing technical jackets for climbers: breathability (including the type of materials used and whether or not the jacket has ventilation such as pit zips); functionality with other layers; sleeve construction that allows unrestricted range of motion; chin guards that wick away moisture; storm flaps over zippers; and elastic drawcords on both the waste and the hood, which allow you to cinch down the jacket against wind and rain.
What to Look for
When perusing the Internet and outdoor retailer catalogs, it's important that you consider what type of environment you are going to be in and to research jackets that are made specifically for that environment. Visit your local outdoor store and try on a bunch of jackets, and make sure you wear the jackets while you simulate the climbing experience. Climb on whatever you can find--some stores have mini rock walls--and wear a full pack, try on your harness, or at least do jumping jacks--whatever it takes to really feel how your jacket moves on your body. You'll want to do your research because if your technical raincoat doesn't fit well, it's not going to keep you dry.
Gortex is the top-performing material used in most rainwear. Craggers don't need the extra burly, triple-layer Gortex that mountaineers and alpinists need for multiple days in bad weather. Either the single- or double-layer Gortex will suffice. Other jackets have a laminate or coating that also perform well.
Common Pitfalls
Gortex is expensive, and though the manufacturers may say otherwise it does become less effective over time. Laminate and coatings definitely wear off eventually, but they are still an excellent alternative for people with low budgets.
Stay away from rubber. It doesn't breath, which is important because while climbing and hiking to the crags you will work up a sweat. If the jacket has no ventilation and material that doesn't breathe, you're going to be soaking wet even if it is waterproof rubber. Also, avoid ponchos: They are too bulky and totally ineffective if you are actually on the rock.
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