Smart Shopping for Ice Screws

A variety of equipment protects ice climbers, including: screw-in tubes (aka screws), pound-in tubes (snargs) and hooks (spectres).
Screw-ins make up the bulk of an ice climber's rack. They come in various lengths--between 10 and 22 cm--and thicknesses--between 15 and 20 mm. Screws typically taper from the hanger to the teeth, thereby allowing easier removal of ice cones that inevitably fill the screw. Screws also have a hanger to clip a carabiner and the rope to. Some have ratchet systems or levers, which make it easier to handle the screw (especially with gloves on) and place it in ice.
Pound-in tubes have fine threads and are placed in a flat or concave spot on solid ice. Hooks are typically used on mixed terrain, where they can be worked in to blobs of ice or cracks (like pitons). They are not as strong as either screw-ins or pound-ins, and so should not be relied upon entirely.

What to Look for

You should carry a variety of screws because you never know what conditions you will find on a route. A screw's ideal length and diameter depend on the type of ice being climbed. Longer, thicker screws are stronger but more difficult to place. Smaller-diameter screws are best for cold, hard ice. Thicker screws are best for soft ice, thick neve and for routes that have been "picked out" by other climbers; they can be placed solidly in already-existing holes.
There are dozens of brands of screws available. The more expensive ones tend to be the ones that are also easiest to place. Check out screws in your local outdoor store, and when handling them put on gloves so you can get an idea of what it is like to work with them. However, the only really good way to figure out which screws are going to work best for you is to actually go out with a friend who has a rack of screws and try them out. Try out as many kinds as possible.
Placing ice screws and reading the ice are difficult skills to master. Consider investing in an ice-climbing clinic or a day with a guide. You can then play with the instructor's equipment and ask plenty of questions.

Common Pitfalls

Though really expensive, all screw teeth eventually become dull and more difficult to screw in. Learn how to maintain your screws for lasting use, and dry them after a day out so they don't become rusty.
Pound-in tubes are easy to place quickly, but a pain for the follower to unscrew. Avoid long ones, and avoid placing them in spots that are tough for your follower to reach.

Last updated on: Jul 16, 2009

Must see: Photo Galleries

Member Comments