Smart Shopping for Ice Axes

Ice tools are composed of five key parts: the pick, the grip, the shaft, the spike and the hammerhead or adze on the opposite end of the pick.

The pick connects your tools to the ice. Picks come in various shapes and can be filed for precision, but should be shaped only by a professional. Most tools these days have replaceable picks, which is a must if you plan on climbing a lot or on mixed terrain. Picks typically have teeth near the end of the shaft, and they can be curved more or less, depending on the style of climbing you want to do.

Grips vary in shape, but newer ones typically have an ergonomic shape that matches a person's hand. Some have pinkie shelves above the spike, which makes the tool easier to grab but more difficult to plant in hard snow. The grips also generally have high-friction texture.

Most tools have some sort of curve, but the more versatile the ice tool, the less curve its shaft will have. For example, if it can be used as a mountaineering axe and an ice axe, it will have less curve than other axes. The curve offers some clearance between the pick and the shaft, so that when you swing the tool or plant it over a bulge, you will not bash your knuckles and the tool will not bounce off the ice. Most shafts these days are made of lightweight metals such as aluminum.

Some tools have leashes, which secure the tool to your wrist, allowing you to rest on the tools and also preventing you from dropping tools. Some leashes are detachable; others are fixed.

The spike at the bottom of the shaft helps climbers balance when they are on less than vertical terrain. Typically people buy one tool with a hammerhead and another with an adze. Hammerheads allow climbers to drive in ice pro, such as Snargs and Spectres, while the adze allows climbers to chop ledges into ice or steep snow.

What to Look for

Visit your local climbing shop and try out ice axes. It's not a bad idea to become familiar with the different styles of ice axes by doing research online or by looking at catalogs. However, you really need to swing axes to know what will work for you. Small climbers might want to invest in the lighter axes that won’t throw them off and tire their arms out quickly. Beefier climbers who whack the ice hard should choose a heavier tool.

If you spend just as much time in the mountains as on ice, you should consider getting a more versatile tool (with a straighter shaft and no pinkie shelf). Mixed climbers should choose brawny picks because they are less likely to break, while pure ice climbers will want more delicate picks that cause less shattering and penetrate the ice more deeply. Less of a curve allows a climber to swing more smoothly, but a more curved pick will hook better into the ice.

Common Pitfalls

Ice tools are very expensive, so choose wisely.

Last updated on: Jul 16, 2009

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