A skin peel or chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment used to make signs of aging less obvious or in some cases reduce the appearance of acne scarring. Many different chemicals at various concentrations can be used in a peel. Your skin will look different, feel different and require specific post-treatment care depending on if you choose a superficial or "lunchtime" peel, a medium-depth peel or a deep peel.
Types
The depth of a face peel is largely determined by the agent used in the peel. The American Academy of Dermatology and American Society of Plastic Surgeons says that alphahydroxy acids, or AHAs, such as glycolic, lactic and fruit acids are typically used in superficial peels, as is salicylic acid and Jenner's solution. Trichloroacetic acid, TCA, can be used in lower concentrations in a superficial peel, but it's most closely associated with a medium-depth peel. Phenol, the strongest chemical used in skin peels, gives the most pronounced results and is used in deep chemical peels. The effect of these chemicals on your skin--as well as the concentration in which they are used and how long they're left on--is the deciding factor in what you can expect after your treatment is complete.
Side Effects
Superficial peels, such as those that use AHAs, won't put you out of commission, according to The Patient's Guide to Wrinkles website. These address very fine lines and other superficial cosmetic concerns, leaving your skin with a healthy glow. You may expect some redness and swelling, but this resolves within 48 hours. Medium-depth peels, on the other hand, result in redness and swelling that lingers for up to 14 days; your skin may blister before it sloughs off, says the AAD. Phenol, the most potent peel, also causes pronounced redness, inflammation and blistering; these peels are so strong, the treated area of skin is bandaged before you leave your dermatologist's office, according to the ASPS. Initially, your face may be so swollen that a liquid diet is necessary. Your doctor may advise you not to talk. Downtime after a phenol peel is lengthy, with side effects enduring up to three weeks. Follow-up visits with your doctor are required. It may also be some time--up to two weeks--before you can wear makeup, says the AAD.
After Care
Superficial peels require nominal care post-treatment, but like most chemical peels, using sunblock is advised, according to The Patient's Guide to Wrinkles. You'll also need a series of these treatments to get the results that you want. After a medium-depth peel, you'll need to treat your skin with special soaks and moisturizers and stay out of the sun until you've completely healed, says the AAD. Phenol peels can involve several soaking sessions each day, as well as the application of heavy creams and ointments. Deep chemical peels can give you extremely dramatic results, but they also inhibit your skin's ability to tan, explains the Patient's Guide to Wrinkles. The AAD notes that total sun avoidance may be necessary for up to six months.
Other Effects
Deep peels may cause a change in your skin tone called hypopigmentation, in which the skin lightens, says the Patient's Guide to Wrinkles. Your dermatologist may not advise a phenol peel if your skin is naturally dark. Superficial and medium-depth peels are generally not associated with changes in pigmentation and are safe for tanned skin and skin of color, says the ASPS.
Considerations
According to the ASPS, some states allow even the deepest type of chemical peel--the phenol peel--to be administered by people who are not physicians. In the hands of an inexperienced practitioner, a TCA or phenol peel could cause more harm than good. Any type of chemical peel requires you to take a risk, the ASPS points out. Although infrequent, peels may result in infection and scarring, and deep peels aren't advised for those with heart conditions. For the safest treatment, the ASPS advises seeking the services of a doctor skilled in the delivery of chemical peels, such as a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
