Alpha hydroxy acid is a hot ingredient in many skin-care products marketed to people with aging skin. Although products that contain alpha hydroxy acid don't have the same potency as prescription topical medications, the Mayo Clinic and the American Academy of Dermatology agree that alpha hydroxy acids may be beneficial for aging skin.
About Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids are derived from natural sources, such as plants and milk, although they can also be synthesized. Within the family, some simply work better than others. Paula Begoun, founder of Paula's Choice skin care and cosmetics, says that glycolic acid and lactic acid are two types of alpha hydroxy acids commonly used in cosmetic preparations and treatments. These two alpha hydroxy acids also have the best scientific research to support their effectiveness. Other alpha hydroxy acids, such as malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid, can also work, but Begoun describes them as "less stable and less skin-friendly." There's also less scientific research supporting their effectiveness.
Where You Find Them
Alpha hydroxy acids are key ingredients in over-the-counter facial washes, wrinkle creams and nonprescription acne treatments, says the Mayo Clinic. These consumer products, which are recommended by the clinic and the American Academy of Dermatology, may be a good start if signs of aging or blemished skin are your areas of concern. But because the U.S. Food and Drug Administration classifies these products as cosmetics, they don't undergo the same scrutiny as prescription topical medications, cautions the Mayo Clinic. Skin-care products that contain alpha hydroxy acids don't offer the results that prescription retinoids provide.
Treatments
Alpha hydroxy acids, namely glycolic acid and lactic acid, are also used in superficial or "lunchtime" peels, says the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. A peel can be used in various concentrations, but it's best for people without extensive signs of aging. Alpha hydroxy peels can smooth out surface flaws, such as fine wrinkles, uneven texture, slight discoloration and acne. To get the best from an alpha hydroxy acid peel, you'll need a series of treatments, says the Society of Plastic Surgeons.
Benefits
The Mayo Clinic says that alpha hydroxy acids are gentle exfoliants that remove the skin's outer layer and encourage growth of new, evenly pigmented skin. Begoun says they are a valued therapy in the treatment of photoaging. Although you can purchase these products without a prescription, the Patient's Guide to Wrinkles website points out that a dermatologist may offer skin-care products with a higher concentration of alpha hydroxy acid than those you find at the department store.
Cautions and Concerns
Using alpha hydroxy acid may increase the likelihood that you'll sunburn easily. Alpha hydroxy acids do act as exfoliants, so new skin has very little protection from the sun. Begoun stresses the importance of wearing a sunscreen if your skin-care products contain alpha hydroxy acid.
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