Rock climbing shoes are specially designed to improve performance on vertical climbs. Modern rock climbing shoes evolved from mountaineering boots and have become highly specialized, with features that allow for heel hooking, edging and aggressive climbing. The type of shoe you use is largely a matter of personal preference. Many climbers own several different pair for different purposes.
Purpose
Rock climbing shoes allow climbers to scale walls and cliffs with few or no natural features. The close fit and design allow you to feel small holds, pockets or ledges that would be undetectable with street shoes or heavy hiking boots. Climbing shoes are not suitable for hiking or walking; if you are climbing outdoors, you should wear appropriate approach footwear until you reach the base of your climb. Because the tight fit of climbing shoes can be uncomfortable, many climbers remove their shoes in between ascents.
History
Early rock climbers wore heavy mountaineering boots or smooth-soled boots with nails pounded into the sole to increase friction. In 1935, French alpinist Pierre Allain created the first soft-soled climbing shoe, which he later refined in 1948. Though Allain's shoes allowed climbers to greatly improve their performance, the introduction of the sticky rubber sole in 1982 revolutionized the sport of climbing. The rubber soles, first introduced by Spanish company Boreal, increased climbers' performance so significantly that for a while, some climbers considered them cheating.
Design
Rock climbing shoes contain little or no padding and are designed to mimic the shape of the climber's foot. The shape of the shoe forces your heel towards the front, creating more weight and power in the toes. The soles are made of sticky rubber to create friction on the wall or on slick slabs. The uppers may be leather, synthetic leather or fabric.
Features
Rock climbing shoes come in laced, Velcro or slip-on styles. Shoes with laces give you the tightest fit, but are harder to remove in between climbs. Climbing shoes typically feature heel loops to help you pull them on more easily. They may have a slightly turned-down toe or sharply defined edges to help you gain purchase on small holds. A more pointed toe box will increase your ability to stand on small features, but may be less comfortable. Some shoes feature a full rubber heel to provide more grip on climbs where you may need to hook your heel over a hold.
Fit
Rock climbing shoes should fit tighter than your street shoes. Begin trying on rock climbing shoes one-half size smaller than your regular shoes. Your climbing shoes may differ from your street shoes by as much as two full sizes. Look for a toe box that mimics the shape of your actual foot. Your toes should point down inside the toe box to provide for a better grip on the wall or the rock. When trying on shoes with a leather upper, allow for some stretching. For the closest fit, do not wear socks with climbing shoes.
References
- Spadout: Climbing shoes
- "Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills;" Steven M. Cox and Kris Fulsaas; 2003
- Spadout: Climbing shoes
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