Skin care products are only as good as the ingredients that compose them. One component that is important to providing good skin care is vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. Vitamin C serums have become very popular due to their many benefits. Different forms of vitamin C are used in skin formulas, each with specific pros and cons.
L-Ascorbic Acid
The Cleveland Clinic recommends L-ascorbic acid as the only form of vitamin C worth looking for in skin products. L-ascorbic acid is the most potent source of vitamin C found in serums, but it is also very unstable compared to vitamin C derivatives, meaning it breaks down easily, giving the product a shorter shelf life. This form has the greatest ability to penetrate into skin cells and boost collagen, the cement that hold the skin together. It can however be highly irritating due to its acidic nature if you do not follow the manufacturer's directions.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate is the most common form of vitamin C found in skin serums. This form is much more stable than others, so products containing it can be kept for longer, as it does not break down as quickly, and it is less irritating to skin. Though less potent, it does still nearly match vitamin E in its antioxidant characteristics. It does not offer the same collagen boost as other forms of vitamin C, because it is found in too low concentrations in most products.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a potent derivative of vitamin C that matches its potential to boost collagen, is more stable and less irritating. It is also available in much lower concentrations, which still provide the benefits but do not cause the chemical exfoliation of the pure L-ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, many products that contain this magnesium derivative of vitamin C have concentrations that are too low to be effective.
Benefits
Consumers who use vitamin C serum for the face report instant clarifying properties and a more radiant skin. It also boasts wrinkle reduction and skin rejuvenation as a major selling point.
What to Look For
Dr. G. Todorov of Smartskincare.com recommends that when purchasing a vitamin C serum you look for clear or white formulations, so that when yellowing occurs, a sign of advanced oxidation, you can discard it. Oxidation causes it to be ineffective and possibly even dangerous, as the oxidation defeats the antioxidant ability. Light and air-resistant packaging is also necessary to defend against deterioration.
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