African-American women come from a wide range of backgrounds--thus the diverse nature of their hair texture. Some have naturally straight hair, while others have tight curls. Those curls are often synonymous with dryness, which can lead to a host of problems. Breakage, frizz and strands with a mind of their own plague many women who may not have access to or have the time to seek professional help. Gain a basic knowledge of curly hair, essential care requirements, tools and products to develop an at-home regimen for ultra-dry hair.
"You with the curls!"
The difference between curly hair and straight hair is determined by the shape of the hair follicle. The follicle determines how oils from the sebaceous glands travel down the hair shaft and lubricate the hair. With straight hair, the shape of the follicle facilitates easy passage of the oils, while the curly hair follicle prevents it. Another reason for curly hair involves the chemical bonds of the protein keratin, comprising 88 percent of the hair. These bonds dictate the structure of the hair and can be enhanced by moisture. As a result, curly hair is naturally dry and often the slightest amount of humidity will make it expand. The curlier the hair, the more problems with dryness you may have.
Heaping Coals on the Flames
When applied to common styling practices, such as chemical relaxing, the use of alcohol- or sulfate-based products and blow drying adds to the already dry condition of hair. Chemical relaxing works by breaking apart the bonds and secluding them so that they can no longer form into their native structure. The main ingredients used in these relaxers interact with hair proteins, causing them to shrivel up and dry out further.
Products
Regardless of whose head the hair is sitting on, curly hair is curly hair. The structure may be different but the needs are the same. So select products based on your hair type as opposed to your race, regardless of a company's statement of being for "black" hair. The best products are those that coat the hair shaft, so that hair doesn't expand and become frizzy. Oil-based products and oils compensate for limited sebaceous oil activity.
Daily Vs. Weekly Washing
Many people with Afro-textured hair avoid daily washing of the hair, while others wash it daily. There are many factors to consider when making this decision. One is whether you use a lot of styling products. Styling products containing alcohol can be extremely drying to the hair and cause it to become brittle. They more or less glue the hair together. You wouldn't allow glue to sit in your hair, so don't allow the styling products to remain either. Regardless of whether you wash it daily or weekly, avoid shampoos containing sodium lauryl sulfate.
Conditioners for Curly Hair
Once again, don't allow race to determine product selection for your hair. There are great products out there made specifically for all types of curly hair. The key to selecting the right product involves watching for key words on labels. Conditioners made for dry or damaged hair are usually thick and creamy and made to smooth the cuticle of the hair shaft and weigh it down so that it does not frizz. These are especially good to use when you have relaxed hair. Conditioners made specifically for curly hair are usually made to not only smooth out the cuticle but also add further definition to your curls.
All Oils Are Not Created Equal
Oils vary in how they interact with the hair. Olive oil is one that is wonderful for smoothing out frizz and detangling, while coconut oil seems to give the hair more body and curl definition. It's all a matter of trial and error and you'll have to experiment to find something that works for your hair. Remember that sometimes less is more; you don't want to pile five and six types of oil in your hair--you want to coat the hair shaft, not drown it. Some of the most popular oils are jojoba, coconut, sesame, olive oil, peanut oil, mink oil and emu oil.
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