Lanolin is a wax-like substance obtained from animals with wool, such as sheep. Secreted from the sebaceous glands associated with hair follicles, lanolin helps animals shed water from their woolly coats. As an ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products, lanolin acts as an emulsifier and skin softener. Lanolin is an ingredient in a variety of toiletry and personal care products and in medical applications requiring a semi-occlusive barrier, one that helps retain moisture while still allowing the skin to breathe.
Chemistry
Lanolin is chemically defined as a wax. Composed of a mixture of esters and polyesters of high-molecular-weight alcohols, fatty acids, free acids and hydrocarbons, lanolin melts between 97 and 108 degrees F. It does not dissolve in water but has strong emulsifying properties, helping to equally disperse nondissolving substances within each other. This emulsifying property is one of the key reasons for its use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.
Function
Lanolin can both prevent moisture loss and rehydrate once loss has occurred. The composition of lanolin is similar to the outermost layer of the skin. It contains a variety of lipids, or fats, such as cholesterol, cholesterol derivatives and free fatty acids.
Lanolin also rehydrates skin that has already lost moisture. Lanolin can absorb a large amount of water, creating a stable emulsion. When applied to skin as a cream or ointment, the water in the emulsion is distributed onto the outermost skin layer.
Cosmetics
Lanolin blends well with nearly all other substances and is easily absorbed onto human skin and hair. As a result, lanolin can be found in skin care, shaving, manicuring, hair care, suntan, sunscreen and baby products, as well as in eye, lip and facial makeup.
In ointments, lanolin moisturizes skin, hair and nails. Similar to its natural function on sheep wool, lanolin acts a lubricant on the skin surface. It gives the skin a soft, smooth appearance.
In lip gloss, lanolin functions as a gloss-enhancing agent. It is a crystal inhibitor in lipstick, a conditioner in shampoos and shower gels and a protective firming agent in hair waxes.
In foundation creams, lanolin acts as an emulsifier, stabilizer, emollient and skin moisturizer. In soaps, lanolin minimizes the dehydrating effects of detergents and helps the product retain its fragrance.
Pharmaceuticals
Lanolin acts as a carrier for pharmaceutically active ingredients because it allows the ingredients to be transported to deeper layers of skin. Lanolin ointments are used in burn dressings for both humans and animals, because they support the wound healing process by providing a semi-occlusive barrier, one that protects the skin but does not completely cover the wound, which could lead to infection or longer healing time. Lanolin is also added to some ointments as an antimicrobial and disinfectant.
In ophthalmic ointments, lanolin functions as an emollient. It is physiologically compatible with eye mucosa and has a very low irritation potential. Lanolin ointments have also been used in suppositories to carry active ingredients and in surgical adhesive tapes.
Safety
The Food and Drug Administration allows the use of lanolin in prescription and nonprescription medications formulated to protect the skin and anorectal area. It is also permitted for use in ophthalmic emollients. In addition to FDA approval, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has reviewed the safety of lanolin and lanolin-derived ingredients and deemed them safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products.
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