Vitamin C must be obtained through the diet, as humans cannot synthesize it in the body. Vitamin C plays a key role in a wide range of human metabolic functions, from the synthesis of collagen to the synthesis of neurotransmitters. It provides structural components to blood vessels and helps transport fat. These roles require vitamin C to be taken internally. However, topical vitamin C can also protect the skin.
Mechanism of Action
Free radicals are oxygen molecules that have lost an electron. They are created as a by-product of oxygen metabolism, the normal process by which cells create energy. They are also created by a variety of external factors such as sunlight, UV radiation, smoking, pollution and some drugs. Free radicals are unstable and often steal their missing electron from normal cells, causing what is known as oxidative damage. Oxidative damage, if left unchecked, can cause a variety of problems, from accelerated aging to formation of cancer.
Antioxidants work by donating an electron to the free radical, thereby stabilizing the free radical and preventing it from stealing the electron from somewhere else.
Vitamin C is such an antioxidant, and topical vitamin C, as provided in a lotion, protects skin by reducing the amount of free radical formation, and/or stabilizing the free radicals that do form.
Dual Role in UV Damage
Vitamin C lotions both repair damage and restore protection to cells. Vitamin C is essential for decreasing the oxidative damage caused by UV light, but levels of vitamin C are decreased when skin is exposed to UV light. Therefore, using a lotion containing vitamin C can be beneficial in two ways: it can help repair oxidative damage caused by UV light, and also restore vitamin C levels in the skin that are decreased upon that exposure.
Role in Collagen and Elastin Repair
According to DermNet NZ, topical vitamin C may activate collagen metabolism and dermal synthesis of elastic fibers. In this capacity, topical lotions containing vitamin C may help decrease the fine lines and wrinkles associated with aging skin. It may also help stabilize collagen during wound healing and protect or lessen the severity of sunburns.
Formulations
According to DermNet NZ, a properly formulated vitamin C containing lotion is difficult to find. Most preparations are made with the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C which is unstable when exposed to oxygen. In addition, most topical vitamin C lotions do not penetrate the skin sufficiently to offer benefits.
According to SmartSkincare.com, there are a number of skin care companies that offer highly concentrated stabilized vitamin C products. However, these products are expensive. In addition, even when vitamin C can be manufactured in a more stabilized form, it will still undergo some oxidation.
Oxidized vitamin C is problematic, as it could actually promote free radical formation. Therefore, as noted by SmartSkincare.com, it is important to be careful about the expiration date and proper storage of the vitamin C containing product.
Considerations
According to SmartSkincare.com, only about 50 percent of people who use vitamin C containing lotions notice any improvement. There are, however, vitamin C derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate that are more stable and less irritating.
Taking vitamin C orally to treat wrinkles is not effective, as a high enough concentration of vitamin C cannot be specifically directed to the skin to increase collagen production.
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