Alpha hydroxy acids are found in cosmetic products sold to consumers, used in day spas and even applied by medical professionals. This popular ingredient has a mild exfoliating effect and is often suggested to counter the effects of aging and acne blemishes. However, alpha hydroxy acid treatments make your skin more sensitive, cautions the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
AHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are extracted from natural sources, such as fruits, milk and sugar cane. The two AHAs most frequently used in cosmetic products and applications are glycolic acid, which comes from sugar cane, and lactic acid, derived from milk. Less commonly used AHAs may include citric acid derived from citrus fruits, such as lemons and oranges, and 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid and 2-hydroxydecanoic acid. AHAs can come from natural sources, says the council, but they can also be synthesized.
Products
Consumer products that contain alpha hydroxy acids may claim to reduce acne, get rid of scars and smooth out discoloration. AHAs are added to acne medications, facial washes and creams and lotions marketed for aging skin. Alpha hydroxy acids in various concentrations are also used in facial peels administered by aestheticians and dermatologists.
Cosmetic Peels
Alpha hydroxy acids are used in concentrations between 30 and 70 percent in light chemical peeling, says skincare expert Paula Begoun. These superficial or "lunchtime" peels can improve the texture of the skin and encourage collagen growth, as well as very subtly reducing the appearance of acne scarring and discoloration. Begoun states that chemical peels using alpha hydroxy acids are not classified as medical procedures by the FDA. Aesthetiticians can administer them, and they generally use peeling solutions with a concentration of AHA of no more than 30 percent. Dermatologists administer more potent AHA peels of up to 70 percent.
Safety Issues
Alpha hydroxy acid has had run-ins with the FDA, which received 114 complaints between 1992 and 2004 about skin care products containing this ingredient. The largest number was received in 1994. Consumers reported adverse reactions such as burning, rash, swelling, changes in skin tone, itching, peeling, chemical burns and incidences of sunburn. According to the FDA, the most serious reactions occurred with the use of AHA skin peelers.
Sun Sensitivity
The FDA has conducted its own research on AHAs and has determined that use of cosmetic products containing this ingredient do result in increased sensitivity to the sun's ultraviolet rays. In January 2005, the FDA issued the "Guidance for Industry: Labeling of Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Ingredients" to educate consumers about the safe use of AHAs. It also devised recommended labeling requirements for products that contain AHAs that include a "sunburn alert" notifying consumers of increased risk for sunburn.The warning further advises consumers to wear sunscreen and protective clothing while using the product and for a week after the product is discontinued.
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