Skin aging involves a troubling array of appearance changes that can include wrinkles, roughness, dry skin, discolorations, blotchiness, yellowing and loss of elasticity. Chronological age is a culprit, but so are unavoidable environmental factors like sunlight and pollution. No wonder then that skin care is a $15 billion industry, according to the market research group Information Resources. Make sure your skin care dollar is well spent by looking for skin care lines with clinically proven ingredients.
Retinoids
Human skin contains a substantial amount of vitamin A, but exposure to the sun can deplete it and even cause a vitamin A deficiency, according to a review in the journal Clinics in Dermatology. Vitamin A and their derivatives, called retinoids, have a crucial role in maintaining and repairing skin tissue. Both aging skin and acne may benefit from topical application of products with retinoids. Some retinoids are available only by prescription, but the version used in over-the-counter skin products is typically listed as "retinyl" or "retinol" on the label. This ingredient can speed up the turnover of skin cells and boost collagen, an essential building block of the skin. According to "Prevention" magazine, dermatology professor Patricia Farris suggests using skin care products with a minimum of 0.1 percent retinoids. Dr. Farris recommends retinoid products packed in aluminum tubes, since exposure to air or light can reduce their effectiveness. Retinoids are featured in RoC skin care products and the Neutrogena Healthy Skin line, among others. Retinoids can sometimes irritate the skin. Consult your health care provider if irritation is excessive.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids, also known as fruit acids, have been used in dermatology for the past 30 years as an effective therapy for skin problems. Many over-the-counter skin lines feature this ingredient in concentrations of 2 to 10 percent. Alpha hydroxy products can help restore and thicken the connective tissue deep within the skin, according to a review article in Clinics in Dermatology. They also hasten the sloughing off of dead skin cells, revealing new, fresher skin beneath. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are two types of alpha hydroxy acids often used as skin care ingredients. St. Ives and Clinique are among the manufacturers that feature alpha hydroxy acids in their lines. Use a sunscreen if you use alpha hydroxy acid products, as even low concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids can cause extra sensitivity to the sun's rays.
Pal KTTKS
Palmitoyl pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serinea synthetic, understandably abbreviated as Pal KTTKS, is a synthetic agent designed to stimulate collagen production and help erase wrinkles, according to an article by Dr. L.R. Robinson and colleagues in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Robinson reported on a study that compared a moisturizer formulated with Pal KTTKS to a moisturizer that was identical, except that Pal KTTKS was absent. The Pal KTTKS product significantly improved fine lines and wrinkles as compared with the other moisturizer. Participants also reported improvements in age spots, dark circles and firmness. Pal KTTKS has many of the benefits of retinol but is less apt to irritate the skin. Look for Pal KTTKS in Strivectin and in Olay's Regenerist line.
References
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science; Topical Palmitoyl Pentapeptide Provides Improvement in Photoaged Human Facial Skin; L.R. Robinson, et al.; June 2005
- "Prevention" Magazine: Retinoids and Vitamin A for Anti-Aging Skin Care
- Clinics in Dermatology; Cosmeceuticals Vitamins; M. Manela-Azulay, et al.; September-October 2009
- Cosmetics Design: U.S. Skin Care Market Still Has Potential Despite Economic Woes
- Clinics in Dermatology; Clinical and Cosmeceutical Uses of Hydroxy Acids; B. Green, et al.; 2009
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