A beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, has negligible solubility in water and remains in active form in lotions. According to the National Institutes of Health, salicylic acid treats acne, psoriasis and other skin conditions by softening and lifting the skin. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery notes dermatologists may use salicylic acid alone or in combination with other chemicals for procedures to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Exfoliation
The epidermis is made up of five layers, with continual shedding of the top layer. Effective for use in chemical peels, salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores of the skin. Side effects might include dry skin, redness or burning. According to Richard E. Fitzpatrick M.D., chemical peels result in scar tissue formation at the sub-epidermal layer to minimize wrinkles.
Skin Cell Renewal
Chemical peels remove dead and damaged skin cells to promote production of new skin cells. According to research by Christian Oresajo and associates reported in "Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology", capryloyl salicylic acid produced a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles in twelve weeks. A 5- to 10-percent solution worked as safely and effectively as a 25-percent solution of glycolic acid, a commonly used alpha hydroxy acid.
Mediates Cell Growth
Wrinkles occur when connecting collagen fibers break apart. According to Mike Farwick in "International Journal of Cosmetic Science," salicylic acid increases production of precursors necessary for the production of collagen to reduce the depth of wrinkles. Collagen production improves skin elasticity and makes the skin appear smoother.
References
- National Institutes of Health: MedlinePlus article: Salicylic Acid
- American Society for Dermatologic Surgery: Chemical Peels
- "International Journal of Cosmetic Science"; Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine; Mike Farwick; August 2007
- "International Journal of Cosmetic Surgery and Aesthetic Dermatology"; Photoaging; R Fitzpatrick MD; 2001
- "Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology"; Clinical Tolerance...salicylic acid; C Oresajo et al; Dec 2008


