Baitcasting reels are open-faced, commonly used reels. These reels attach to the fishing rod on the top of the rod, rather than underneath the rod. All baitcasting reels share some common components, including a spool, a crank, a spool release button and gears inside the reel that control the amount of slippage of the spool and the “return ratio” of line pulled in per crank. Some baitcasting reels are extremely expensive. All deserve regular maintenance.
Parking the Crank
If your baitcasting reel has a hand crank you can easily remove or that can be folded out of the active position, it is worthwhile to get the crank out of harm’s way while transporting your rod and reel. Get in the habit of automatically parking the crank in a closed or folded position, or removing it, to prevent it from bending or getting broken by mishaps when putting the rig away or in a car or trunk.
Bagging the Reel
When you are finished fishing for the day, place a reel bag over the reel to keep dirt and insects out of the reel housing. Most high-end baitcasting reels come with a nice leather or nylon bag that zips or snaps shut. If you don't have a nice bag, make one out of a plastic bag.
Blowing Out Debris
Use a can of compressed air to blow dirt, vegetation and insects out of the open spool. These foreign substances can interfere with the gears and inner workings of a baitcasting reel, especially since the reel is open to the elements. Keep a small can of air in your tackle box or boat equipment locker. The canned air is also handy if you get sand or salt water inside your reel.
Lubricants
While some baitcasting reels use lubricants that don't need to be refreshed more than once a year, other models, especially older models, can often have their life extended by relubrication during the fishing season. Avoid doing this yourself, unless your reel comes with the instructions for lubrication. Otherwise, take your reel to a professional tackle store with a full-service department and ask the store to lubricate your reel for you.
Reel Spool
Over the season, fishing line on the reel spool can collect all kinds of microscopic nicks and cracks that can degrade your line. You could lose a good fish if you don't know about these flaws because the line can break when you least expect it. Every few months during the season, or more often if you fish very frequently, remove the first 10 feet of your line from your baitcasting reel. Dispose of this waste line responsibly, and do not merely throw it in the water or on the shore where it can injure or kill waterfowl.
Fixing Misaligned Gears
If the gears or the “drag” on your baitcasting reel isn't working correctly, don't try to fix this problem while you're fishing. This is a delicate maintenance task, and you run the risk of making the problem worse by trying to make a repair in less-than-ideal circumstances. If you're not good at small-parts repairs, take the reel into a service center for help.
Batteries on Microchip Reels
Some very advanced baitcasting reels, such as Shimanos, actually have a microprocessor inside the reel to help control the gears. The small batteries that power the “brains” of these $600 to $800 reels occasionally need changing. Follow the manufacturer directions for changing a battery.
References
- “The Orvis Guide to Tackle Care and Repair: Solid Advice for In-Field or At-Home Maintenance”; Ted Leeson; 2006
- “Tackle Care: The Tackle Maintenance Handbook”; C. Boyd Pfeiffer; 1987
- “Pro Tactics: Tackle Repair & Maintenance: Use the Secrets of the Pros to Get the Most From Your Tackle”; Kevin Dallmier; 2008
- “The Field & Stream Tackle Care Handbook”; C. Boyd Pfeiffer; 1999
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