Not all shampoo ingredients are good for your hair or your health. The sometimes unintelligible ingredients listing on the back of shampoo bottles can make it hard to navigate the personal care aisle with the knowledge of what ingredients are good for your hair and which may be harmful. Depending on your personal care preferences, certain shampoo ingredients may be more desirable than others.
Laureth Sulfates
Controversy abounds regarding the safety of detergents used in shampoos. At the center of the controversy are sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate. These ingredients cleanse hair, change the surface tension of water and cause shampoos to lather. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has issued a comparison of these four ingredients. While all of them may cause eye and skin irritation in high quantities, sodium lauryl sulfate exhibited skin-changing effects when tested on laboratory mice due to a build-up of the chemical within hair follicles and on the surface of the skin. While all four ingredients are currently approved by the Food and Drug Administration for use in cosmetic and personal care products, sodium laureth and ammonium laureth sulfates have not, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review fact sheet, shown the same degree of irritation as sodium and ammonium lauryl sulfates.
Glycerin
Glycerin, sometimes spelled glycerine, is a fatty liquid used in shampoos for its moisturizing properties. It is a colorless, odorless, sweet-tasting chemical that works as a hygroscope. For individuals with dry hair, glycerin may provide the added moisture needed to keep hair looking healthy and shiny. Glycerin draws moisture from the air to hair follicles. Glycerin also forms a protective barrier on the hair, even after shampoos have been rinsed away. This protective barrier slows the rate of water evaporation, leading to a longer period of moisture-retention, according to “Don't Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me,” by author and beauty expert Paula Begoun.
Herbal Extracts
Mother nature provides a plethora of ingredients to choose from, many of which are included in shampoos. An article from Columbia University mentions jojoba oil as a quality shampoo ingredient. Jojoba oil not only adds moisture to hair, but can help remove deposits of sebum, giving hair a soft feeling free of build-up. Chamomile extract may be the right choice for people with blonde hair. According to “The Herbal Companion,” chamomile has a mild bleaching effect that can bring out natural highlights without the use of damaging bleach or ammonia products. Lemon juice closes the hair cuticle, a process that makes hair look smooth and healthy, according to “The Beauty Brains.” A lemon extract in shampoo might work best for someone with damaged or oily hair, as the acidic nature of the extract also cuts through oil.
References
- The Cosmetic Ingredient Review - SLS (PDF)
- "Don't Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me"; Paula Begoun; 1999
- "The Herbal Companion: The Essential Guide to the Properties of Herbs"; Marcus A. Webb; 1998
- Columbia University's Student Health Services: Go Ask Alice!: How Often to Wash Hair?
- "The Beauty Brains: Real Scientists Answer Your Beauty Questions"; Sarah Bellum; 2008
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