Climbing with carabiners means that you have entered the vertical world. In this environment it is crucial to link ropes and protection to safely navigate through unforgiving terrain, where there is little room for error. Carabiners have a relatively short history but have become a critical piece of equipment in the climber's arsenal, with countless implementations in proper climbing technique. They are incredibly strong and light, and have had tremendous impact on the various genres of climbing.
History
Carabiners were first used in sailing. These hand-shaped steel links allowed early 20th century sailors to easily link ropes and manage lines and sails due to a weakness, or gate in the link, that they could open or close. During World War II, the U.S. military began producing aluminum carbiners as all-around quick-links for multiple uses. These lightweight carabiners caught the attention of climbers in California, and within a few decades, companies were manufacturing aluminum carabiners specifically for climbing.
Workhorse Gear
Today, climbing with carabiners means that you are climbing fifth class terrain, or vertical conditions that warrant protection in the event of a fall. According to the ABC of Rockclimbing website, they have a number of uses, but a main use of carabiners is to connect the climber to the rope. Depending on conditions, as climbers ascend they frequently pause to create some form of protection for themselves, in the form of removable gear that finds purchase in the rock, or fixed hardware that is permanently in place left by prior climbing parties. Carabiners are the link between climber, rope and protection.
Kinds and Uses of Carabiners
What began as a simple oval-shaped link has now evolved into a number of specially designed carabiners, each with its own purpose. Depending on its intended use, designs vary in size, materials, weight and shape. Locking carabiners have screw sleeves over their gates so you can lock the gate for safety. For the convenience of sport, quick-draws, or two carabiners linked by a thick nylon fabric, are very popular because of their many applications to climbing activity. Belay carabiners are over-sized and pear-shaped to facilitate operation while wearing a climbing harness. According to REI, once you identify your climbing needs, then you'll know which carabiners to look into.
Strength of Carabiners
Climbing is dangerous business, so it's important to be aware of the strength and weaknesses of your equipment. Climbing strength ratios are measured in kilonewtons, or Kn. One Kn is roughly 225 lbs., so when you see a carabiner that is rated to 8Kn, you know it is capable of holding a force of 1,800 pounds. Many climbers have become concerned with weight limiting their performance, so they seek the lightest equipment they can find. While these ultra-light carabiners are still strong, they sacrifice longevity and strength on the way to their fewer grams.
Advancing the Sport of Climbing
Advancing technologies and new materials have carabiners getting lighter and stronger all the time. As weight, performance and availability increase, it helps the sport progress by allowing climbers to set new sights on goals and push the limits of what is possible. Carabiners are found in all aspects of the climbing realm, from indoor climbing gyms, to outdoor adventure classes, after work climbing sessions and world class alpine expeditions.
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