Oil on the skin, known as sebum, is a combination of fats and dead gland cells released by microscopic sebaceous glands under the skin. At normal levels, sebum is helpful in lubricating the skin and protecting it from dehydration, irritation and sensitivity, as well as bacteria. However, over-productive sebaceous glands can result in too much surface oil, causing a greasy shine that is uncomfortable, interferes with the adherence of makeup, blocks pores and contributes to acne. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, over-washing the skin to remove surface oils can cause an increase in oil production. When dealing with oily skin, you must use care to remove surface oils without over-stripping the skin of its protective barrier.
Topical Retinoids
Retinoids are vitamin A creams, which are available in prescription form or over the counter. Retinoids are commonly used to treat acne and may help reduce oil production in the skin. Because retinoids can cause skin irritation and flakiness, DERMAdoctor recommends using them sparingly every other night. Retinoids can also increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so use them only at night and apply a sunscreen in the morning.
Hydroxy Acids
Salicylic acid, also known as beta hydroxy acid, is commonly used in acne cleansers to help exfoliate the skin, unclog pores and remove excess surface oil. Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, can help remove surface oils from the skin and may help other treatment products penetrate the skin more deeply, making them more effective.
Look for facial cleansers or treatments containing salicylic acid, BHA, AHA or AHA/BHA. Hydroxy acids may also cause skin irritation or dryness if used excessively. Do not use hydroxy acids in conjunction with topical retinoids or benzoyl peroxide as this could increase skin irritation.
Masques
Facial masques can help dislodge materials in glands and reduce the presence of surface oils for several days. Look for a masque with AHA or BHA and apply every few days in the evening. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse with warm water.
Medication
Overactive sebaceous glands are the result of an excess of a hormone known as dihydrotestosterone, or DHT. Some medications currently exist that help control DHT production; however, none are approved for use by the FDA solely for the treatment of oily skin. According to DERMAdoctor, estrogen-based medications such as birth control pills may also offer the side benefit of oil reduction. Talk to your doctor to determine if your skin condition is serious enough to warrant hormone therapy or other medications.
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