Herbal soaps can be handmade by hobby crafters or lifelong artisans, and commercially available herbal soaps line the shelves of supermarkets. While herbal soaps are similar to other soaps in their base ingredients, the additives and oils used in the production are what distinguish herbal soaps from run-of-the-mill soap products.
Base Ingredients
A soap is defined by the Food and Drug Administration as a byproduct of a chemical reaction between alkali salts and fatty acids. The alkali salt of choice is usually sodium hydroxide, or lye. Fatty acids can be anything from natural vegetable oils--coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba oil--to animal fats from cows, chickens or pigs, to other ingredients like shea butter or milk. The ingredients are combined in a process called saponification, in which the fatty acids and alkali salts mix and produce two byproducts, glycerin and salt. The salts are what we call soap.
Soap base is prepared in one of several ways: cold process, hot process, melt-and-pour or rebatching. Cold process and hot process involve creating the soap base from scratch. Herbal soaps made from melt-and-pour recipes use a premixed soap base. Rebatching involves mixing up previously created soap bases to form a new base. You can make herbal soaps with any of the variable ingredients and processes.
Essential Oils and Herbs
Herbs are what distinguish a herbal soap from plain soaps. Herbs can be introduced as essential oils–distilled oils from parts of the herb--or as dried pieces of the herbs themselves. Pieces of the herbs introduce texture and a handmade feeling to soaps. Essential oils are more concentrated and deliver a greater scent and, if used as an alternative remedy, a greater dose of the remedy.
Herbs used for soothing, relaxing soaps include lavender, chamomile, rosemary and sandalwood. Medicinal herbal soaps might include tea tree oil or witch hazel, two natural astringents used as folk remedies against blemishes. Other herbs, like thyme, may be used to remedy fungal infections. Chopped herbs provide exfoliation; the plant matter sloughs off dead skin cells. Ginger particles make an excellent exfoliation ingredient in herbal soaps and provide an invigorating feeling when used, as noted in “The Herbal Companion.”
Other Additives
Herbal soaps may include other ingredients for various purposes. Some soaps contain a preservative, such as sorbitol, to prevent the soap from drying out. Moisturizing herbal soaps may include plant extracts, cellulose or glycerin to add extra moisture to dry skin. Commercially available herbal soaps may include a range of emulsifiers, preservatives and chemicals, a far cry from homemade herbal soaps, which usually are made with natural ingredients.
References
- "Scientific Soapmaking: The Chemistry of the Cold Process"; Kevin M. Dunn; 2010
- "Basic Soap Making: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started"; Elizabeth Letcavage, Alan Wycheck, Patsy Buck; 2009
- "The Herbal Companion: The Essential Guide to the Properties of Herbs"; Marcus A. Webb; 1998
- "Herbs for Natural Beauty"; Rosemary Gladstar; 1999
- "The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances"; Julie Gabriel; 2008
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