Facial peels, also known as chemical peels, work by removing the top layer of skin to reveal clear new skin. Once a well-kept secret of socialites and Hollywood stars, facial peels are now widely available. Facial peel ingredients vary from the lighter fruit acids used in home peel kits to the much stronger phenols that require a general anesthetic. Chemical peel ingredients should be used with care, because if you dilute or apply a home peel incorrectly, you can damage your skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha hydroxy acids include citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid. According to the people at dermadoctor.com, “When included in a product at an effective concentration, AHAs help disintegrate the 'glue' that holds dead, dry skin cells to the surface of the skin. By doing so, the epidermis is exfoliated leaving a silky texture.” Citric acid comes from citrus fruits like oranges and lemons, and is used more to lighten skin than to exfoliate. Glycolic acid is made from sugar cane, and is most commonly used to rejuvenate the skin by peeling away aged and damaged layers. Lactic acid comes from sour milk. It is used most often as a skin softener, to help maximize the benefits of other AHAs like glycolic acid. Malic acid and tartaric acid have recently begun appearing in skin care products, but they have not been proven to have any benefits to the skin.
Trichloroacetic Acid
Trichloroacetic acid, also known as TCA, is used for both light and medium peels, though some skin care doctors combine it with a formulation called Jessner’s solution for a slightly deeper peel that requires much less healing time than a deep phenol peel. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, “Fine surface wrinkles, superficial blemishes and pigment problems are commonly treated with TCA.” TCA is also used for tattoo removal.
Phenol
Phenol, also known as carbolic acid, is used for the very deepest skin peels. A phenol peel can require general anesthetic, bandaging of the face and several weeks of healing time. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, “Medium-depth and deep peels can result in swelling and blisters that may break, crust, turn brown, and peel off over a period of seven to 14 days or longer.” Phenol peels can also interfere with your skin’s ability to produce pigments.
Other Facial Peel Ingredients
Many facial peels also include glycerine, to help the formula go on smoothly, and colored dyes to help the doctor be certain that he is applying the peel evenly.



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