You’ll find glycolic acid, also known as an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, in cosmetic and personal care products. You will most often see AHAs in products meant to improve your skin’s overall look and feel. Prescriptions may contain glycolic acid as well, and you’ll see it used in chemical peels done by dermatologists.
Identification
Glycolic acid is the most frequently used AHA. It is most often made from sugar cane. Lactic acid is another AHA and is derived from milk. Glycolic and lactic acids are the most effective and well-researched AHAs. Citric, malic and tartaric acid are other AHAs. These are less stable and are also not as skin-friendly as lactic and glycolic acid, advises Paula Begoun, author of “The Original Beauty Bible.”
Function
You’ll find glycolic acid in a range of products. These include cleansing formulations, moisturizers and other skin-care items, shampoo, hair coloring and dye, and makeup, according to website Cosmetics Info. Glycolic acid sometimes serves as a pH adjuster. AHAs such as glycolic acid also act as water-binding agents, says Begoun.
Features
AHAs can be organic and naturally occurring or they can be synthetically made. Some 99 percent of the AHAs in cosmetics are synthetic, says Begoun. Glycolic acid is a natural AHA, notes the University of Maryland Medical Center, or UMMC.
Significance
Glycolic acid can be used to exfoliate skin cells and may promote collagen and elastin production, according to UMMC. It works by breaking down the substance in your skin that holds your skin cells together, says Begoun. In a cosmetic formulation, you need a concentration that is more than 4 percent, and that’s in a base containing an acid pH of 3 to 4, says Begoun. Over-the-counter formulations come in concentrations of 2 to 10 percent, while prescription formulations come in 12 percent concentrations, according to UMMC.
Benefits
Glycolic acid is used in the mildest form of facial chemical peel offered by dermatologists. These are meant to give you smoother skin and can be used to improve appearance of skin that has color irregularities, acne, mild scarring or wrinkles, notes the Mayo Clinic. A glycolic acid peel removes a portion of the outer layer of your skin, or epidermis. Professionally-administered peels are done with formulations that have 30 to 70 percent concentrations of glycolic acid.
Considerations
AHAs can cause skin irritation such as itching. Also, a risk of increased sun sensitivity exists after using glycolic acid, Begoun cautions. This is because it exfoliates sun-damaged skin from your skin’s surface. The exfoliated layer had provided sun protection for your skin, though this protection is somewhat minimal. You should use sunscreen daily or stay out of the sun if you use glycolic acid products.
Member Comments