Black women are known and admired for their ability to transform the style, length, texture and appearance of their hair on a daily basis. Unfortunately, the techniques responsible for such versatility are often the cause of chronic hair loss. The three main culprits of hair loss in black women are relaxers, tension of the scalp and heat damage. Fortunately, there are ways to counteract the damaging effects of these processes.
Relaxers
Hair relaxer is used to straighten tightly curled hair. The process appears quick and easy, but the effects of hair relaxers can be hazardous to the hair and scalp. There are two types of hair relaxers: lye and non-lye. Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, which is a strong substance that is also found in drain cleaners. Lye relaxers straighten by stripping the cuticle from the hair strand, which gives the hair its curly shape. This process leaves the hair in a weakened state, making it vulnerable to breakage.
Non-lye relaxers contain guanidine hydroxide. These types of relaxers are mistakenly viewed as a healthier alternative to lye relaxers. Although non-lye relaxers are less harsh than lye relaxers, they can still cause the same type of damage if misused.
Both types of relaxers damage the scalp if applied incorrectly. Safe preparation includes applying a thin layer of protective base--usually grease--to the scalp before applying the relaxer. Unfortunately, if the base is not applied correctly or the relaxer is left on the hair too long, a chemical burn can occur. Chemical burns result in a raw, painful open sore on the scalp, which can leave the scalp and hair follicles permanently damaged.
Black women should only allow experienced professionals to apply relaxer to their hair. Also, increasing the amount of time between relaxer reapplication or discontinuing the use of relaxers will prevent additional hair loss and allow the hair to restore its strength.
Tension on the Scalp
Black women also suffer from traction alopecia, which is a nonhormonal form of hair loss caused by constant tension and pulling on the scalp. Traction alopecia can result from consistent usage of hair enhancers such as weaves and extensions. One method of attaching weaves and extensions is sewing them into the natural hair, which is braided. The weight of the added hair pulls on the hair and scalp, which can subsequently damage the hair follicles. Traction alopecia can also result from tight braids and ponytails. Wearing loose hairstyles reduces the risk of traction alopecia. Women with braided hair must ensure that their stylist does not make the braids too tight.
Heat Usage
As a nonchemical alternative to relaxers, black women straighten their hair with heat straighteners and hot combs. Without a doubt, this method is safer than using relaxers, but it can still damage the hair. Excessive heat styling dries out the hair, which can lead to breakage and split ends. Luckily, heat damage is easily prevented by ensuring the hair is properly moisturized and protected before using heat. Applying moisturizer and heat protectant to the hair before straightening will greatly reduce the chances of heat damage.
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