Glycolic acid is an all-natural, non-toxic alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, derived from sugar cane. It is commonly used as a superficial peeling agent in cosmetic procedures aimed at skin rejuvenation, or as a treatment for acne. Glycolic acid peels and other skin care products containing glycolic acid are available for both professional and at-home use.
Basics
Glycolic acid is a natural exfoliant that works by sloughing away dead surface cells to reveal the newer, healthier skin underneath. The effectiveness of a glycolic acid product varies according to its concentration. Over-the-counter products generally contain 5 to 10 percent glycolic acid while higher concentrations--40 to 70 percent--are more typical for peels.
Benefits
As an anti-aging treatment, glycolic acid improves the texture and appearance of skin by reducing fine lines, surface wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. Furthermore, glycolic acid has a drying effect that can counter excess sebum, one of the causes of acne. It also unclogs pores and prevents the buildup of dead skin cells.
Procedure
Glycolic acid products range from mild, over-the-counter cleansers and lotions to stronger, more concentrated peels. The former are typically formulated for daily, at-home use; however, glycolic acid peels require careful application and should only be performed by dermatologists and qualified aestheticians.
According to the Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center, glycolic acid peels are performed in three steps. First, the skin is prepared with a degreasing agent. Then the glycolic acid is applied, left on for two minutes and neutralized. It may take multiple sessions, usually spaced two to four weeks apart, before results are achieved.
Side Effects
Using over-the-counter products with glycolic acid can cause skin sensitivity and increase the risk of sunburn, according to the FDA. Other side effects may include dryness, redness and irritation.
According to the Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center, some individuals experience redness following a glycolic acid peel while others may have swelling and crusting. These reactions are temporary and subside with the use of mild topical steroids.
Safety
When using any glycolic acid product, use sunscreen regularly to protect against sunburn. Glycolic acid peels should not be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women.



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