The delicate skin under the eye is among the first facial areas to show signs of aging. Moisture loss, a slowdown in collagen production and sun damage combine to create fine lines that can eventually turn into crow's feet. Glycolic acid can help your skin slough off those old, damaged layers of skin and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
Identification
Glycolic acid is one of a series of alpha hydroxy acids. This fruit-based acid acts as an exfoliator, removing dead cells from your skin's outer layer. Allergan, a manufacturer of glycolic acid-based skincare, reports that only products containing 10 percent or less glycolic acid can be dispensed over the counter. Aestheticians may administer chemical peels using glycolic acid concentrations of 20 to 30 percent. Higher-percentage formulations, ranging from 50 to 70 percent, must be administered by a doctor.
Sources
Glycolic acid can be sourced naturally or synthesized in a laboratory. Natural sources include grapes, beets and sugar cane. According to DuPont, synthesized glycolic acid has been available for more than 50 years.
Function
According to Allergen, glycolic acid soaks through the outer layer of your skin, loosening the bond between dead skin cells and the lipids holding them together. Once that bond is loosened, dead skin cells can be sloughed away. It also cuts down on the amount of oil in your skin and helps your skin retain moisture.
Effects
Glycolic acid peels can help fight acne, reduce small wrinkles, treat dry skin, fade areas with dark pigmentation and smooth skin's overall texture, notes the University of Chicago Medical Center. Upon application, glycolic acid causes tingling and a slight burning sensation, but not enough to require anesthetic during the peel procedure. Temporary aftereffects include redness, dryness and irritated skin. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons advises that after a peel, your doctor may recommend a milder glycolic acid formulation to mix with your regular cleanser or moisturizer for daily use.
Over-the-Counter Formulations
Over-the-counter glycolic acid products are less likely to be effective than the stronger formulas available through dermatologists and doctors. However, if you're more interested in polishing skin than removing nascent wrinkles, these gentle formulas may do the trick and save you money. According to Oprah.com, a drugstore glycolic acid peel costs approximately $20 while a professional peel ranges between $125 and $250.
Warning
All glycolic acid peels carry some risk of permanent skin damage, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Scars and infections aren't common but they do happen. If your peel is successful, you'll still need to guard your skin from the sun. Alpha hydroxy acids aren't as strong as the chemicals used for heavy peels, but they do expose new, healthy skin to environmental stressors, like the sun and air pollution. To keep newly revealed skin healthy, the ASPS recommends frequent and regular sunblock usage.
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