Despite its appearance, "afro hair" in its natural un-relaxed state, is very delicate. According to Dr. Susan Taylor, MD, an internationally known and board certified dermatologist, "afro hair" is elliptically shaped on a cross section and contains many kinks or knots which causes the hair to be more prone to breakage. Because of this fact, tightly curled hair in its natural state must be treated differently.
Dr. Taylor also states that because of the tight coils and curved follicles, "afro hair" is prone to becoming ingrown and dry. To make it grow, maintain the length that grows every month by preventing the fragile ends from breaking off. Trim split ends every few months so they don't travel up the hair shaft. Everything you do to your hair should support this goal.
Step 1
Moisturize those kinks. Kinky, unprocessed hair loves water. Water is the best moisturizer. If you have short curly hair then wash it daily, add a plant-based gel and go. This will accentuate your natural curl pattern.
Wash your hair daily if you can but do not use shampoo on a daily basis. You can wash your hair with conditioner or even an aloe-based product. Use shampoo once or twice per week in order to wash away any build up.
It may not be feasible to wash medium-length or longer hair on a daily basis particularly if you are working or if you have a busy schedule. In this case, follow the instructions in step four to keep your hair moisturized during the week and free from breakage.
Step 2
Comb your natural tresses while it is wet. Since the hair is naturally elastic, it is more buoyant and resilient when it is wet. This is exactly the opposite with "afro hair" that has been processed or relaxed; processed hair has become too fragile to comb while it is wet because the curl pattern has been broken and weakened.
Comb tangles out of your hair with either a wide tooth comb or a pick while you are in the shower. This will minimize pain and unnecessary hair loss. If your hair is already dry, use a spray bottle filled with water and leave-in-conditioner to dampen the hair before you comb it through.
Step 3
Deep condition your hair weekly with protein treatments. Dr.Taylor also states that all hair grows one-half inch each month, but "afro hair" often breaks off and creates the appearance of non-growth. Use a protein conditioner as least once per week. Hair reconstructors are excellent for unprocessed hair.
Remember, the objective is to keep the length that naturally grows every month by making sure the "old" ends don't break off. Your conditioner goes a long way to prevent this from happening.
Step 4
Wash your hair while it is braided. Medium- and longer length "afro hair" may be a bit difficult to wash every day, although it is still the best way to keep natural hair moisturized. Section your hair in about six or seven parts and braid it before washing. This technique helps minimize hair breakage while washing.
Hair strands by themselves are weak and will break off easily, but when put together such as when they are braided, the hair becomes stronger and difficult to break. The spaces between the braids allow you to clean you scalp with ease.
While you are in the shower, remove each braid one at a time, squeeze the excess water from your hair, comb through the conditioner and then re-braid it. Do this for all the braids.
Wrap your hair in a towel and let it dry naturally. Once your hair is dry, place a small amount of conditioner on the scalp and style your hair for the week.
Step 5
Do not mess with your tress. Those individuals who like to wear different hair styles and change up their hair often will likely experience more split ends. This over manipulation of the hair causes it to break off very quickly. Limit amount of times each week that you change your hair style.
Step 6
Consider wearing a wig during times of frustration. Wear different wigs so you can change up your hairstyle without abusing or altering your natural hair. Often, individuals who are trying to grow their natural hair long get frustrated with it and want to reach for the relaxer. Wear wigs to allow your hair to rest, and resist the temptation to relax your hair out of frustration and to change up your style periodically.
Step 7
Decrease heat exposure to your hair. Limit the amount of heat exposure to your hair to only special occasions. Until your hair reaches your desired length, do not do too much to it.
Keep your hair in a bun, braids, twists or other natural styles so you don't have to apply heat in any form whether it is a curling iron, press and curl, or blow dryer. Too much heat will damage your hair and it is counterproductive to the growth of healthy, long hair.
Tips and Warnings
- Tie your hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to prevent breakage.
- Don't use too many different types of products in your hair. Do not clog your pores by using oils on your scalp. Use a good conditioner instead.
Things You'll Need
- Wide tooth comb or pick
- Protein conditioner
- Wig (optional)
- Silk scarf
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