In the quest to regain youthful-looking skin, anti-aging creams are a popular weapon of choice. With such provocative names as "Hope in a Jar" and "7 Minute Face Lift," these creams make impressive claims. Some women swear by their favorite formulas while others feel deceived when a pricey formula doesn't deliver.
Purpose
Anti-aging creams claim to do a number of things to change the way your skin looks and feels. Claims often include smoothing skin, plumping skin, erasing fine lines and wrinkles, lifting sagging neck skin, fading liver spots, removing sun damage, relaxing laugh lines and removing crow's feet. Some creams distinguish between diminishing the existing signs of aging and preventing future signs of aging from ever appearing.
Causes of Aging
According to Paolo Giacomoni of Clinique Laboratories, skin aging occurs when something triggers the synthesis of a particular molecule called ICAM-1. Common triggers, he writes, include things like stress, smoking, alcohol consumption, ultraviolet rays and hormones, among others. ICAM-1 signals the body to release dangerous oxidants that cause skin damage. For Giacomoni, truly effective anti-aging products would need to repair the DNA damage caused by these oxidants and help keep the skin's collagen fibers smooth and orderly.
Antioxidants
Some anti-aging creams fight skin damage by depositing a topical supply of antioxidants. According to skin care manufacturer BORBA, hundreds of antioxidants to choose from exist. They work together, supporting each other's specific functions as they fight oxidative damage. BORBA lists vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid as key antioxidants.
Fillers
Other creams deposit "fillers" such as collagen and elastin to strengthen and plump skin, reducing the look of fine lines. According to the New Zealand Dermatological Society, skin sags when fat, collagen and elastin stored beneath the skin's surface decrease in volume. Although many anti-aging formulas contain ingredients like vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids, the Society cites topical retinoids such as retinol and retinaldehyde as the only anti-aging ingredients proven to have a beneficial effect on aging skin.
Considerations
Not all anti-aging creams have been evaluated by the FDA. The FDA evaluates drugs to make sure they're safe and effective, but they don't do this for cosmetics. Some manufacturers market their products as cosmetics even if they have drug-like effects. In April of 2010, the FDA published an update to its Import Alert 66-38, naming companies that may fall into this category. The first version of this list, published in 1988, was updated in 2009 to include such well-known manufacturers as Avon, Chanel, Elizabeth Arden, Estée Lauder and Revlon. If you're shopping for anti-aging creams, be aware that the product's marketing claims may not have been evaluated by the FDA.
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