Glycolic Acid for the Face

Glycolic Acid for the Face
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If fine lines and wrinkles have started appearing at the corners of your eyes and lips, you're probably wondering how to get rid of them. Without resorting to surgery, you can diminish the look of those fine lines with glycolic acid, a mild abrasive suitable for home or salon use.

Identification

Derived from sugar cane and fruit, glycolic acid is one of a series known as "alpha hydroxy" acids. In terms of skincare, it's commonly used as an exfoliator, removing dead skin cells in order to reveal fresher, younger-looking skin beneath. According to the New Zealand Dermatological Society, glycolic acid may also help clear up acne.

Strength

According to Allergan, a glycolic acid manufacturer, over-the-counter products may only contain 10 percent or less glycolic acid. If you purchase an exfoliator, at-home peel or fruit acid mask, check the label for the percentage of glycolic acid. If the product claims to have more than 10 percent acid, proceed with caution. To get a stronger acid, visit an aesthetician. Licensed practitioners can use concentrations of up to 30 percent glycolic acid. Doctors may use even higher percentages, up to 70 percent acid.

Chemical Peels

Mild chemical peels often use glycolic acid as their main ingredient. The University of Chicago Medical Center reports that glycolic acid peels can treat dry or rough skin, fade uneven pigmentation, reduce wrinkles and help treat acne. When applied, the acid may cause mild discomfort in the form of stinging or burning. After the peel, your skin may be red, dry or irritated. The outer layer of skin may shrivel and tighten into a crust, but once that crust peels off, you'll likely see smoother, fresher, brighter skin.

Efficacy

Glycolic acid peels can be as effective as stronger chemical peels, according to Alpesh Desai and Lawrence S. Moy of the Manhattan Beach Skin and Laser Institute. In the book "Photoaging," they write that glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping skin look smooth and unlined. A peel of 50 to 70 percent glycolic acid left on the skin for 15 minutes will function at a skin depth that's equivalent to a stronger trichloracetic acid peel of 35 or 50 percent. Even better, glycolic acid peels don't have to be left on as long, they write, resulting in less damage and recovery time.

Warning

The American Society of Plastic Surgeons, or ASPS, warns that although glycolic acid peels are usually mild, they do carry risks. There is always a slight chance of scarring or infection following any kind of chemical peel. Once you remove the outer layer of facial skin, the new layer underneath must be protected from sun damage to maintain a smooth, youthful appearance. Because alpha hydroxy peels are mild, your dermatologist may recommend having a series of peels over time. The ASPS advises constant use of sunscreen to protect the newly revealed skin.

References

Article reviewed by demand68117 Last updated on: Aug 8, 2010

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