Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA. It is a naturally derived, mild chemical exfoliant. Applied topically, glycolic acid works to smooth rough skin, fade uneven pigmentation and minimize fine lines and wrinkles. Due to its rejuvenating effect on skin, glycolic acid is featured in a range of anti-aging products, from at-home lotions and creams to prescription-strength peels.
Basics
The surface of the epidermis is composed of dead cells bound together by a glue-like substance. Exfoliants slough away this top layer of skin in order to uncover the fresher, healthier cells beneath. Unlike traditional scrubs, however, glycolic acid does not exfoliate by abrading skin. It helps remove dead cells by working to dissolve the sticky bonds between them.
Benefits
According to "HealthBeat," a Harvard Medical School publication, natural cell turnover slows down as skin ages, causing it to look "rough and sallow." By speeding up cell turnover, glycolic acid encourages the appearance of smoother, more youthful skin. Furthermore, treatments containing glycolic acid concentrations of 10 percent or more may strengthen skin by stimulating the production of collagen.
Glycolic Acid Peels
Facial peels can contain glycolic acid concentrations of up to 70 percent and are typically administered by a dermatologist or aesthetician. The Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center describes the facial peel procedure in three parts: the glycolic acid is applied, left on for two or more minutes and neutralized. Due to the mildness of the peel, the recovery time is usually short. According to the center, most patients return to normal activities immediately after treatment.
Over-the-Counter Glycolic Acid Products
Lower concentrations of glycolic acid are available for at home use. These mild anti-aging treatments are typically formulated for daily application and come in cleanser, cream, lotion and serum form.
Selecting the right glycolic acid product depends on skin type and sensitivity. Those with oily skin may benefit from a light serum, while dry-skinned individuals tend to do best with creamier formulations. People with sensitive skin should start with a lower concentration to test how skin reacts.
Considerations
Most anti-aging products emphasize glycolic acid's ability to smooth skin, even out complexions and diminish fine lines. But according to the book "Growing Younger," the effectiveness of any glycolic acid treatment depends on its concentration. For instance, while over-the-counter products may make skin smoother, they are too weak to erase wrinkles. Even stronger formulations like those used in facial peels cannot produce immediate results---it usually takes six procedures spread out over a few months to see improvement.
Warning
According to the FDA, glycolic acid use can temporarily increase skin's sensitivity to the sun. To avoid sunburn, wear sunscreen or protective clothing for a week after treatment. Using glycolic acid may also result in side effects like mild irritation, redness and peeling. These reactions should be temporary; if they linger or become more severe, stop using the product immediately.
References
- Discovery Health: Glycolic Acid Information
- "Growing Younger"; Bridget Doherty and Julia VanTine; 2002
- Harvard University HealthBeat: Alpha Hydroxy Acids
- Johns Hopkins University Cosmetic Center: Glycolic Acid Peels



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