Glycolic Peels & Acne

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, derived from sugarcane. Like other AHAs, it is a mild chemical exfoliant. Used topically for the treatment of acne, it works by unplugging clogged pores and fading away surface imperfections for a more even complexion. The strongest glycolic acid formulations typically come in peel form. While most glycolic acid peels are performed by dermatologists or aestheticians, some treatments are available over-the-counter in lower concentrations.

Basics

The bumps and inflammation associated with acne occur when hair follicles become clogged with sebum, bacteria and dead skin cells. As an exfoliant, glycolic acid helps prevent this by clearing away dead cells and keeping pores open. It also imparts a mild drying effect, which may help treat oily skin, according to Discovery Health.

Glycolic acid peels can improve skin's overall health, from encouraging the production of collagen to diminishing the appearance of superficial post-acne marks and scars.

Glycolic Acid Peels

Dermatologists and aestheticians offer in-office glycolic peels in concentrations of up to 70 percent. The treatment time for these procedures is relatively short. According to the Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center, the practitioner prepares the patient's face with a degreasing agent, applies the acid, and lets it sit for two or more minutes before neutralizing. Due to the mildness of the peel, the procedure is generally repeated six times over a period of a few months to achieve satisfactory results.

Home Glycolic Peels

Less concentrated glycolic peels are available over-the-counter. The use and effectiveness of these peels varies according to the product's strength and formulation. When choosing a glycolic acid peel for home use, start with a mild formulation to see how skin reacts--even a glycolic acid concentration of 5 percent can irritate skin, says Discovery Health.

Side Effects

Severe side effects of AHA use, as reported by the FDA, include burning, swelling and blisters. But according to Dr. Richard G. Fried, author of "Healing Adult Acne," glycolic peels typically cause only mild side effects. These reactions are temporary and include light redness and peeling. Most patients are able to return to normal activities right away.

Warning

Glycolic acid use can temporarily increase sun sensitivity. The FDA reports that skin should return to normal one week after treatment; however, the Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center recommends that patients use sunscreen for several weeks after treatment. Furthermore, avoid sun exposure completely during the three hours immediately following the peel, advises the center.