Manufacturers often use the word "herbal" on their cosmetic products to imply that a product is natural and safe. However, the word isn't regulated, so there is no legal meaning. The best way to identify natural herbal shampoo and lotion products is to read the ingredient list. Look for herbs by name, and check the other ingredients as well to make sure that the shampoo or lotion doesn't include animal products, petroleum products or synthetic fragrances.
Herbal Fragrances
The only natural herbal fragrances are essential oils. They are produced by the steam distillation of leaves, blossoms, seeds, bark or roots. The steam dissolves the volatile fragrant and healing components of the herbs. When the steam cools and condenses, essential oils float on top of the condensed water. If your lotion or shampoo simply lists fragrance as an ingredient without specifying the particular fragrance, it is likely to be synthetic.
Herbs for Hair
Aloe, chamomile, rosemary, sage and green tea are common ingredients in herbal shampoo. Aloe and chamomile are soothing and are often used to treat scalp irritation and infection. Chamomile is used to enhance blonde hair, and rosemary is used to enhance brunette hair. All of these herbs have antioxidant and antiseptic activities and help reduce dandruff.
Jojoba is a waxy oil from the jojoba plant that closely resembles sebum, the natural oil produced by your scalp. It helps to keep hair shiny and moisturized. Horsetail has saponin, a sudsy surfactant which helps to lift dirt and float it away. Shikakai, from the acacia concinna tree, hibiscus, yucca and papaya are also surfactants.
Herbs for Skin
Lotions are a combination of oil and water with an emulsifier to stabilize the mixture. Essential oils are added for their fragrance and healing components. Herbal teas or decoctions are often used in lotions in place of plain water. Herbal tea is made by steeping the herb in hot water; a decoction is made by boiling the herb in water for 20 minutes. Herbs for lotions include the same herbs used in shampoo, as well as flowers, such as lavender and orange blossom, peppermint and oil of wintergreen for pain, eucalyptus and rosemary for sore muscles and calendula, and cedar and goldenseal to soothe irritated skin.
Oils
Plant oils are used in both herbal shampoos and lotions, including olive, almond, jojoba, avocado and others. In shampoo and soap products, the word saponified and the word sodium refer to oils that have been mixed with sodium hydroxide to make soap. Saponified coconut oil and sodium cocoate are the same thing: coconut oil combined with sodium hydroxide to make soap. This is a natural chemical process that produces soap and glycerin, a natural humectant.
Lotions include emulsifiers, such as beeswax or lecithin, that help to stabilize the oil- and water-based ingredients so that they don't separate.
Considerations
Generally, herbal lotions and shampoo are safe to use in normal circumstances but it is possible to be allergic to some of the ingredients. If you are unsure, perform a patch test before applying the shampoo or lotion to larger areas of your skin. Put a dab of the product on your inner arm and cover the area with a bandage. After 24 hours, check for adverse reactions, such as rash, itching, swelling or redness, which indicate that you may be allergic and should not use the product.
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