Since 1898 when mountain climbers William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson and Jon Shive reached the top of the Grand Teton, people from all over the U.S. and world visit Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming to attempt to follow in their footsteps. The summit's elevation is 13,770 feet, and with over 35 routes to the summit of the Grand Teton, visitors have a choice in the difficulty of their climbs.
Time Frame
The safest time of year for climbing the Grand Teton is from June to September. On average, June is the wettest month and July is the driest. However, Rocky Mountain conditions are unpredictable, and storms can occur at any time, especially in the afternoons. Climbing the Grand Teton can take anywhere from two to four days, depending on conditions and stamina level.
Starting Point
The Lupine Meadow Trailhead is the starting point for the Owen-Spalding, Exum Ridge and Petzoldt Ridge trails. The trailhead starts at an elevation of 6,732 feet. Watch for signs to the Lupine Meadow Trailhead when entering the park. The American Alpine Club Climbers Ranch on Teton Park Road provides campers with accommodation close to the trailheads. Many climbers choose to stay at the Ranch the night prior to their climbs. The Ranch is rustic and climbers must bring their own bedding and supplies. As of 2010, the nightly rate for staying at the Ranch was $20, which included the use of showers and cooking facilities.
Routes
The Owen-Spalding trail starts at the Lupine Meadows trailhead. This grade II route is standard for technical rock climbers, which takes one to two days and has a rock difficulty of 5.4. Chimneys are often a challenge to climb, especially if they are ice-filled.
The Upper Exum Ridge is the most-climbed route on the Grand Teton. This grade II route takes non-technical climbers one to two days to climb and had a rock difficulty of 5.4. The Upper Exum Ridge also starts at the Lupine Meadows trailhead. The large ascending edge known as Wall Street marks the true start of the ridge. The slab known as the Friction Pitch has minimal protection and climbers consider the first 20 feet the hardest part of the climb.
The Petzoldt Ridge trail is a full-day climb for technical rock climbers. Approached via the Lower Saddle at 11,650 feet, the grade III route has a climbing difficulty of 5.6. The Petzoldt Ridge has several options, and route-finding is often time-consuming and dangerous. The route's many ledges offer resting places for climbers to eat and enjoy the view.
Safety
Safety is a concern when climbing any mountain. The steep inclines, sheer drops and unpredictable mountain weather can take their toll on inexperienced climbers. Many novice climbers choose to book onto group climbs led by experienced guides and climbers. On a guided climb, the tour company usually provides any necessary safety equipment.
Supplies
When climbing to the summit of the Grand Teton, you will need various pieces of climbing, hiking, and camping equipment and supplies. A backpack provides a secure place to keep your belongings while hiking and climbing. Hiking poles are helpful for climbing steep areas. Water and food is an absolute must to keep your energy levels up while attempting this taxing climb. An ice axe and crampons provide safety when climbing steep or sheer cliffs.
Considerations
To climb the Grand Teton, you must enter Grand Teton National Park. As of 2010, the park had a per-vehicle entrance fee of $25, which lasts for seven days and is also valid for Yellowstone National Park. Climbers who plan to reach the top will likely need backcountry camping permits, available free from the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Backcountry campers must bury their solid waste in a hole 6 to 8 inches deep and at least 200 feet from water.
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