Castle Rocks State Park is a world-class climbing area near City of Rocks National Preserve in south-central Idaho. The park is situated to the south of Burly, Idaho, in the small town of Almo. With 1,440 acres, the area features a mix of trad and sport climbing routes. As of September 2010, a motor vehicle entrance fee is charged.
History & Access
Congress authorized purchase of Castle Rocks Ranch in November 2000, and the area opened to the public in May 2003. On March 31, 2010, a ban on climbing was issued at an unmarked boundary in the northwestern region. The ban was issued by the BLM after Native American tribes stated the area had cultural significance. Around 300 routes were closed. More than 700 legally accessible routes still exist in the area.
Season
As of September 2010, the park is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. At an elevation of 5,620 to 6,540 feet, days can be hot with cold nights. A historic Ranch House with park and ranching heritage is often open between Memorial Day weekend through Labor day.
Sport Routes
Most of the routes in the area are one to three pitches and range from 50 to 400 feet with an approach time of 20 to 90 minutes from the parking area. On the southwest side of the park is one of the most well-known sport routes in the area, Red Rib. Red Rib is a single pitch 5.10a sport route with exciting exposure. It is an obvious rib with red color requiring a 60-meter rope.
Trad Routes
The size and variety of necessary trad gear varies at Castle Rocks. As an example, Twinkie is a highly rated 5.10c trad route in the Hostess Gully. The route begins with a few bolts and follows with a crack for draws, nuts and small-size cams. At 70 feet, the route can be completed in a single pitch.
Camping
A unit of Castle Rocks State Park, Smoky Mountain Campground accepts reservations from May 1 through September 30. Reservations are available up to nine months before the date and are not accepted within 24 hours of arrival. Out of season camping is available on a nonreservation basis as weather allows. As of September 2010, the serviced electrical and water service campsites cost $22 per night plus tax. Primitive camping is available two miles away at Castle Rocks.
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