In the U.S., many African-American women use relaxers or texturizers to make their hair more manageable. Some women start as early as childhood, and spend most of their lives never knowing their true hair texture. Growing natural hair can be challenging because natural black hair needs special care. Growing natural hair can also be rewarding as it means freeing yourself from the damage caused by relaxers. Some women may want to transition out of a relaxer, while other may opt for the "big chop"---cutting off the relaxed hair and starting over.
Transitioning
Step 1
Comb your hair gently. The relaxed hair may be brittle and the new growth may be thicker and harder to comb than the relaxed hair. Comb too quickly and the relaxed hair may break off. Use a wide-toothed comb and a detangling agent. If possible, only comb your hair when damp or wet.
Step 2
Wash with conditioner if your hair is very dry. Washing with conditioner, or "no-pooing," is similar to washing with shampoo but less likely to strip oils from your hair. "No-poo" your hair at least once a week.
Step 3
Moisturize often. Use a moisturizing shampoo and condition after each wash. Wash no more than once a week and use conditioner between washes. Deep condition once a month and apply hot-oil treatments twice a month.
Step 4
Avoid heavy mineral oil and petroleum-based products. Heavy oils clog the pores and hinder growth. They also weigh the hair down and do not absorb well. Use plant-based oils such as carrot, jojoba or coconut.
Step 5
Style your hair in braids, bantu knots or twists to preserve the ends. Try dreads for a more permanent look. Weaves and wigs can also ease the transition process.
Step 6
Avoid heat styling as much as possible. Use rollers instead of curling irons, and air dry instead of using a hair dryer.
Step 7
Braid, or twist, and cover your hair when sleeping. Bonding and covering the hair prevents breakage from friction against your pillow.
Step 8
Get your hair professionally trimmed every two-to-three months, to remove any damaged ends. Go to a salon that specializes in natural hair.
Making the Chop
Step 1
Have a professional cut out your relaxed hair. A professional can style and shape your hair and may be able to preserve some of the length. Use scissors designed for hair-cutting, or a well-oiled set of clippers if you do it yourself.
Step 2
Mix together 10 drops of peppermint essential oil, seven drops of rosemary oil and four drops of tea tree oil with 1 cup of olive oil. Massage a dime-sized portion of the oil mixture into your scalp once a week.
Step 3
Follow the moisturizing, styling and maintenance instructions in the section on transitioning.
Things You'll Need
- Moisturizing shampoo
- Light conditioner
- Deep conditioner
- Detangler
- Wide-toothed comb
- Carrot, coconut or jojoba oil
- Scarf or "do" rag
- Peppermint essential oil
- Rosemary essential oil
- Tea tree essential oil
- Olive oil
References
- "No Lye! The African-American Woman's Guide to Natural Hair Care"; Tulani Kinard; 1997
- "Thank God I'm Natural";Chris-Tia E. Donaldson;2008
- "Textured Tresses: The Ultimate Guide to Maintaining and Styling Natural Hair";Diane DaCosta with Paula T. Renfroe;2004
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