Face cream fillers claim to plump up facial lines to disguise the signs of normal aging or skin damage due to diet or weather exposure. As early as 1953, The British Journal of Industrial Medicine noted skin sensitivities and irritation to oil products that today are routinely incorporated as fillers in face cream products. Federal regulatory agencies do not regulate filler use in face creams, and care should be taken to avoid fillers linked to aggravation of allergies and skin sensitivities.
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) cites skin, eye and lung irritations related to ammonium laureth sulfate, as well as other dangers including organ system toxicity. Ammonium laureth sulfate is commonly contained in face cream fillers and numerous brands of shampoos, conditioners, hair colors, antibacterial soaps, foaming hand washes and shower gels. Alternate names on product labels for ammonium laureth sulfate include ammonium dodecyle sulphate, lauryl sulfate ammonium salt, sulfuric acid, monododecyl ester and ammonium salt. In one study, daily application of a mix of lauryl sulfate and ammonium thioglycolate on live rabbits for a period of 20 days killed approximately 50 percent of them. EWG ranks this filler substance as a moderate hazard when used in small concentrations added to shampoos and cleaning products. Its use as a filler in face cream has not been comprehensively studied.
Mineral Oil
Dangers of mineral oil include cancer, allergies, problems with immunotoxicity, organ system toxicity, irritations of the skin, lungs and eyes. In addition to face cream fillers, mineral oil is used in cuticle oil, makeup remover, eye lubricant, antibiotic ointment, antiperspirant deodorant and diaper cream. The EWG ranks the oil as a low-to-moderate hazard, but the amount of mineral oil in the product determines the toxicity level. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration classifies mineral oil as safe for specific or general use, except in food production, but official assessment of the product's safety for use in cosmetics and fillers has yet to be evaluated by the agency. The Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances, also known as RTECS, found links between mineral oil and tumor formations in the skin, respiratory and blood. Skin irritation was also noted.
Propylparaben
Propylparaben is a preservative that belongs to a group of p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters known as PHBA. Propylparaben is linked to cancer, developmental and reproductive disorders, and allergies. The EWG ranks the substance as moderately hazardous. In addition to use as a face cream filler, propylparaben is found in face cleanser, sunscreen, makeup foundation, moisturizer and shampoo. The European Commission on Endocrine Disruption cites strong evidence of human endocrine disruptor concerns. The Cosmetic Industry Review also claims strong evidence that the substance is a human skin toxicant. RTECS notes "positive mutation results" in more than one in-vitro test on mammalian cells. Studies tested use of propylparaben in concentration of less than 0.1 percent and noted allergic side effects that included "itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering," according to the EWG.
References
- "International Journal of Toxicology"; Final Report; Valerie C. Robinson, et al; 2010
- U.S. Department of Health & Human Services: Household Products Database: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- U.S. Department of Health & Human Services: Household Products Database: Propylparaben
- PubMed: "International journal of toxicology": Final Amended Report on the Safety Assessment; 2008
- Medline Plus: Mineral Oil Overdose
- "Mail Online": The Future Face of 40
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