Glycolic acid is a form of alpha hydroxy, or fruit, acid that can be applied to the skin to encourage exfoliation. In higher concentrations, it is applied as a one-time chemical peel. Because it is considered a superficial peeling agent, some forms of glycolic acid may be safe to use at home. Knowing how and when to use a glycolic acid peel ensures you can safely care for your skin.
Function
Glycolic acid has uses as a chemical peel because of its small molecular size, according to LaraChem. When applied to the face, glycolic acid penetrates the pores to release the "glue" that binds dead skin cells to healthy cells, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist writing on DERMA Doctor, a skincare resource website. Glycolic acid also helps stimulate the growth of collagen, which gives skin its elasticity. For these reasons, glycolic acid peels are used at home to treat acne, blackheads, blotchy skin, fine wrinkles and age spots. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, several applications may be needed in order to be effective.
Significance
Performing glycolic acid peels at home allows you to experience the benefits of a superficial to mild chemical at your convenience. Glycolic acid peel kits intended for home use may contain between 4 and 12 percent glycolic acid and are sometimes blended with salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid. However, glycolic acid peels that reach 30 percent or more should not be performed at home but in a clinical setting instead where your skin's reaction can be closely monitored.
FDA Conclusions
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has conducted testing on the safety of glycolic acid for use in creams, lotions and in products labeled for "peeling." Based on their review of industry studies and testing, the FDA's Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel found that glycolic acid is safe for home use when the concentration is 10 percent or less and the formula has a pH of 3.5 or greater, which means it is not a very strong acid.
Labeling
The FDA requires that products containing alpha hydroxy acids contain a warning that use of the product may make your skin more sun-sensitive. The FDA conducted studies as to the safety of glycolic acid products and found the products did increase sun sensitivity. To combat this, directions on the package should instruct you to wear a sunscreen or sunblock for added protection from ultraviolet light after applying a glycolic acid chemical peel. Over time, this increase in sun sensitivity should subside.
Warning
Although at-home glycolic acid peels contain low levels of glycolic acid, Dr. Kunin reminds you that "acid is acid." This means you should apply it as carefully as possible to reduce the risk of adverse effects, such as irritation, redness and peeling. Carefully read all directions before using. You also should avoid off-brand or generic chemical peels whose contents may not have been carefully regulated for safety.
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