All hair, whether Afro or otherwise, has three layers—the cuticle, cortex and medulla. The outer layer, or cuticle, of Afro hair is thinner which makes it more prone to breakage. Afro hair also has tight coils that prevent the hair’s natural oils from properly lubricating the strands. This leads to dryness which further contributes to damage and breakage. Finally, many African-Americans use chemicals to relax their natural hair texture, and these chemicals can also damage the hair and scalp and inhibit growth. With proper care, and a few lifestyle changes, it is possible to grow long and healthy Afro hair.
Step 1
Take care of your scalp. Use medicated shampoos to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff. If over-the-counter dandruff treatments do not work, consult your physician for other treatment options. Massage your scalp regularly to encourage blood flow and loosen dead skin. A healthy scalp means healthy hair.
Step 2
Avoid chemicals. Relaxers and texturizers have caustic chemicals that rob the hair of moisture and cause breakage. The FDA warns that both chemical relaxers and dyes cause hair loss and damage to the scalp. If you must chemically straighten your hair, have it done professionally and consider alternative straightening methods.
Step 3
Moisturize. Condition your hair after every wash, and wash your hair no more than once a week. Shampoo, even the moisturizing variety, strips oils from the hair. Deep condition your hair at least once a month and apply a hot oil treatment at least once a month. Use a leave-in conditioner, in addition to your regular conditioner, if your hair is extremely dry.
Step 4
Turn down the heat. Overuse of flatirons, curling irons and straightening combs can all damage the hair, as hair dryers. Use these implements sparingly, apply products to protect your hair from the heat and air dry whenever possible.
Step 5
Lighten up on the oils. Use vegetable-based hair oils, such as carrot, sesame or olive, instead of mineral oil or petroleum-based. Thicker oils clog the pores, and hair follicles, and inhibit hair growth. They also coat, and weigh down, the hair strands and do not absorb properly.
Step 6
Eat hair-friendly foods. Zinc, B vitamins and iron all contribute to hair growth. As does protein and vitamins A, C and E. Meats, including fish and chicken, fresh fruits and vegetables and whole grains all contain hair-friendly nutrients. Vegetarians can replace the meat with eggs, dairy and beans for the same benefits.
Step 7
Go to a salon that specializes in natural hair. Natural hair salons have a different idea of what constitutes healthy Afro hair, than salons that specialize in relaxers and other chemical treatments. Even if you intend to straighten your hair, someone who specializes in your hair type can show you the best and healthiest options for your specific hair texture.
Things You'll Need
- Medicated shampoo or hair treatment
- Daily conditioner
- Deep conditioner
- Hot-oil treatment
- Moisturizing hair treatments
- Vegetable-based oils (carrot, sesame, olive)
- Iron-rich foods
- Zinc-rich foods
- Vitamin-rich foods
References
- FDA: Hair Dye and Hair Relaxers
- "No Lye! The African-American Woman's Guide to Natural Hair Care"; Tulani Kinard; 1997
- How to Grow Longer Hair for Black Women
- University of Maryland Medical Center: Hair Disorders
- Hairfinder: Diet’s Role in Hair Health
- Follicle.com: Hair Structure and Hair Life Cycle
- "Thank God I'm Natural";Chris-Tia E. Donaldson;2008
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