The benefit of a pull-up station is the mobility it affords as opposed to a stationary pull-up bar. The station can be moved to any location within the house or on a patio deck. In addition, an understanding of the physics involved in a free-standing pull-up station can open the door to a custom design that may become the topic of conversation during friendly workouts. With a basic design, standard framing lumber or redwood makes a stable base for the station. Steel pipe is cut to length and threaded to make the uprights and pull-up bar.
Base
Step 1
Cut two pieces of 2-inch-by-4-inch Douglas fir 48 inches long using the circular saw. These will be the sides for the base of the pull-up station. Cut another piece 66 inches long as the upper cross piece for the base.
Step 2
Position the sides of the base parallel and lay the upper cross piece on top and at center of the sides to form the "H" base.
Step 3
Flush the ends of the cross piece with the outside edges of the base pieces and use the framing square to align the configuration perpendicular and uniform. Use the electric drill and a 1/16-inch drill bit and make four pilot holes on each end of the upper cross piece where it intersects with the base pieces.
Step 4
Apply wood glue between the upper cross piece and base pieces at the intersection points. Attach the upper cross piece to the sides of the base with 2-inch wood screws. Use a screwdriver or electric drill with a screw tip to tighten the wood screws. Turn the base over.
Step 5
Cut a piece of 2-inch-by-4-inch Douglas fir to fit between the sides of the base. This will be the lower cross piece that adds stability to the base. Drill several 1/16-inch pilot holes into the face of the lower cross piece. Use wood glue and screws to attach the lower cross piece to the underside of the upper cross piece. Turn the base upright.
Upright
Step 1
Assemble the steel pipe uprights and pull-up bar by threading a 90-degree elbow onto one end of a 7-foot length of 1 1/4-inch threaded steel pipe. Tighten the elbow with a pipe wrench and thread a 5-foot length of 1 1/4-inch threaded pipe into the open end of the elbow. This will be the pull-up bar. Tighten the bar into the elbow with a pipe wrench.
Step 2
Thread another 90-degree elbow onto the opposite end of the pull up bar and tighten it so the open port is perpendicular to the pull up bar and pointing the same way as the opposite elbow. Thread another 7-foot length of threaded steel pipe into this elbow and tighten it with the pipe wrench.
Step 3
Thread the pipe flanges onto the ends of uprights and tighten them with a pipe wrench. Stand the pull-up bar assembly in place atop the upper cross piece center the pipe flanges where the sides intersect. Mark the upper cross piece at the locations of the pre-drilled holes in the flange bases and set the upright assembly aside.
Step 4
Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through the cross piece and sides of the base at the marked locations. Turn the base over and drill 3/4-inch countersinks 1/2-inch deep at each pilot hole using a flat wood bit. These are recesses for nuts and washers. Turn the base over so the upper cross piece facing up.
Step 5
Stand the steel pipe upright assembly on the base and align the flanges with the pilot holes on each side of the base. Insert 1/8-inch machine bolts into each pilot hole.
Step 6
Lean the pull up station to one side and put washers and nuts on the end of the bolts. Tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Lean the station the other way and complete the machine bolt attachments.
Tips and Warnings
- Use self-sticking felt pads on the base to protect hardwood and vinyl floors.
Things You'll Need
- 2-inch-by-6-inch Douglas fir
- Circular saw
- Framing square
- Electric drill
- 1/16-inch drill bit
- Wood glue
- 2-inch wood screws
- Screwdriver or screw tip
- 1 1/4-inch threaded steel pipe
- 90-degree elbows
- Pipe wrench
- 1 1/4-inch pipe flanges
- 3/16-inch drill bit
- 3/4-inch flat wood bit
- 1/8-inch machine bolts with nuts and washers
- Socket and ratchet
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