Sun exposure is the No. 1 cause of visible skin-aging. Sun damage speeds up skin's aging process, resulting in wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and certain types of skin cancer. Many over-the-counter lotions and creams claim to reverse the signs of skin damage caused by the sun. Certain substances contained in some nonprescription facial lotions, including vitamin A and caffeine, have been shown to reverse signs of skin damage caused by the sun, although over-the-counter products are not evaluated by the FDA for effectiveness.
Sunscreen
The best way to avoid sun damage on the face is by preventing it from happening in the first place. Exposure to ultraviolet light accelerates skin aging, resulting in wrinkles and skin spots. Excessive UV exposure can also lead to skin cancer. Using a moisturizer with sunscreen is integral for preventing facial skin from getting damaged by the sun's rays. If your skin has already been sun-damaged, using a product with sunscreen can protect it from further damage and cancer. Be sure to use a product containing an SPF of at least 15 that blocks both UVA and UVB rays and to wear sunscreen on your face whenever you are outdoors, even during wintertime.
Retinoic Acid
Clinical studies, including a University of Michigan study published in "Archives of Dermatology," have demonstrated the capacity of a vitamin A derivative called retinoic acid to reverse visible signs of aging caused by sun exposure. Using topical skin products containing retinoic acid improves the appearance of photoaged skin by promoting the skin's production of new collagen. Facial creams containing retinoic acid, including tretinoin, are available by prescription only, although many over-the-counter products contain retinol, a less-potent metabolic precursor to retinoic acid, which also improves sun-damaged skin by stimulating collagen production.
Caffeine
Emerging research, including a 2007 University of Washington study, indicates that topical application of caffeine may help reverse the negative effects of UV exposure. The UW study measured the effects of topical caffeine application to photodamaged skin in mice, finding that caffeine improved both the appearance of UV-damaged tissue and reversed some epidermal changes associated with nonmelanoma skin cancer. In the first human study of caffeine's effects on sun-damaged skin, published in "Journal of Investigative Dermatology" in 2009, scientists concluded caffeine reverses UV-damage by killing off sun-damaged cells. Scientists have yet to develop a formulation containing caffeine that can be used to target precancerous skin cells, although some over-the-counter anti-aging products already contain caffeine.
References
- MayoClinic.com: Wrinkle Creams: Your Guide to Younger-Looking Skin
- PubMed: Looking Older: Fibroblast Collapse and Therapeutic Implications
- "British Journal of Dermatology"; Protection from Photodamage by Topical Application of Caffeine After Ultraviolet Irradiation; S-W Koo, et al; 2007
- "Journal of Investigative Dermatology"; UVB and Caffeine: Inhibiting the DNA Damage Response to Protect Against the Adverse Effects of UVB; Claudia Kerzendorfer and Mark O'Driscoll; 2009
- LiveScience: Caffeine May Kill Some Cancer Cells


