Glycolic acid is a common ingredient in anti-aging skin products, but a dermatologist or plastic surgeon also can administer it as a chemical peel. This process involves applying a glycolic acid solution directly to your face to smooth the texture of the skin. Acid peels are indicated for facial wrinkles, acne and uneven skin pigmentation, according to DocShop.com.
Glycolic Acid Peels
Glycolic acid is a natural, nontoxic alpha hydroxy acid isolated from fruit sugar. Peels administered by dermatologists have a glycolic acid concentration of 40 percent to 70 percent, as opposed to the home kits available in pharmacies, which have concentrations of 10 percent and 20 percent. The glycolic acid weakens the lipids that hold dead skin cells together, exfoliating the cells and exposing the living skin underneath.
Three levels of doctor-administered glycolic acid peels are available: superficial, medium and deep. Superficial and medium peels are quick outpatient procedures performed in a dermatologist's office, whereas deep peels might be done in outpatient surgical centers under general anesthesia.
Appearance of Skin After Treatment
After a chemical peel, your skin will look sunburned. Depending on the strength of the peel, the redness may fade within hours or last up to a week. According to the Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center, you should avoid makeup and skin care products for three hours after a light peel and avoid products containing retinoic or glycolic acid for three days.
After a medium peel, your skin will swell for 48 hours. It may also blister and scab, and will crust and peel off in seven to 14 days. After five to seven days, you can begin to wear makeup again.
A deep peel has the longest healing time, taking up to three weeks. Your skin will be bandaged and will scab. It will take at least two weeks before you can wear camouflaging makeup.
Frequency of Treatment
Superficial glycolic acid peels are given once every two to four weeks, usually for a series of six peels. You may or may not see results after the first peel. You can receive an unlimited number of peels, and long-term maintenance is required to sustain the results. The Johns Hopkins Cosmetic Center states that the average number of superficial glycolic acid peels per patient per year is two. Most patients return to work immediately after a superficial peel.
The frequency with which medium and deep peels are repeated varies from patient to patient and should be discussed with your dermatologist. You will see a visible reduction in skin imperfections after a single medium or deep peel.
Recovery and Aftercare
Superficial peels usually require little more than compresses, lotion and the use of sunscreen throughout the course of treatment. Medium and deep peels require a course of antiviral medication afterward, as they can cause blistering of the skin and leave it open to infection. You will need to soak your face daily and apply ointment after soaking. After a medium peel, avoid the sun completely for the seven- to 14-day healing period. After a deep peel, soaks are required four to six times per day, as are several followup visits with your physician during the first week. Avoid the sun completely for three to six months after a deep peel. Lotion or moisturizer is adequate for hydrating skin after a medium peel, but a deep peel will require application of a thick cream several times daily.
Safety
Since they produce only superficial results, glycolic acid peels are generally quite safe. There is a possibility of increasing or decreasing skin pigmentation, but this is rare. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends informing your physician if you are prone to cold sores, have taken isotretinoin or are prone to scarring, particularly raised scars called keloids. Pregnant women should not have acid peels. If you have ever had an adverse reaction to anesthesia, a deep peel may be contraindicated.
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