Also called a "sit harness," rock-climbing harnesses sport two key components that ensure a climber's safety and comfort--a waist belt (aka Swami belt) and leg loops. The waist belt, which should be buckled snuggly above the hipbones, keeps the climber secured to the rope, while the leg loops increase comfort and prevent gut wrenching for those times when a climbers falls or hangs on the rope. Most of today's harnesses feature a belay loop that connects the leg loops and waist belt. Climbers use this loop for belaying and clipping into anchors.
Other typical components include gear loops, rear haul loops and fleece or foam padding. Plus, leg loops often feature buckles and/or elastic bands that allow climbers to adjust the size of the loops and/or to keep them snug on a climber's leg without restricting movement or blood flow. The type of padding or leg loops a climber wants or the number of gear loops they require depends on the style of climbing they are doing--sport, traditional or alpine. Some of the newest harnesses feature speed-buckle systems that don't require threading and unthreading, but most have a standard double-back buckle system.
What to Look for
To determine whether a harness is right for you, start by determining which type of climbing you will be doing. Then check out any of the available gear guides published online or by Rock & Ice or Climbing magazines to view the latest, most affordable models. Finally, visit your local outdoor store and try half a dozen on.
Find one that fits snuggly and comfortably. There should be two to three inches of belt remaining after you buckle in, there shouldn't be hard edges (either the metal buckle or the stiff nylon belt) digging into your sides, the leg loops shouldn't put undue pressure on your genitals, or be too loose or too tight around your upper thighs. Choose a harness with adjustable loops if you can't find one that fits perfectly. Adjustable leg loops are also handy if you plan on trying various types of climbing; ice climbers wear more layers, for example. Find a climbing shop that has sort an anchor that you can hang from in order to test how the harness supports your full body weight.
Common Pitfalls
The $50 to $100 price range of harnesses may have shoppers looking for less expensive used harnesses, but don't fall into this trap. Used harnesses can be dangerous because a worn or frayed belay loop can fail, which could be fatal for a person who is rappelling or for a climber being belayed. Plus, if a harness does not fit snuggly over the hipbones, there is potential for the climber to fall out of her harness if she flips upside down after a fall.
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